Amalfi Coast /
The Slow Soul of Amalfi
Category: Travel Guide
Location: Amalfi, Italy
“In my childhood, artists worked at the square of Amalfi town. For me, they were the identity of the Amalfi coast – I remember once travelling to Budapest, visiting a museum, and finding paintings of Amalfi there. Today, there is no room for artists here anymore, everything has turned into commerce, and tourists want a fast experience. They just want to post a photo on Instagram to show people that they have been here, but when doing that, they miss the actual experience of being here. The real Amalfi coast is slow, it requires you to slow down and take your time. You can still find this slowness in Ravello, and in Maiori, Minori, and Cefalù, but not in Positano. Locals don’t even live there anymore; they only go there to work. It has lost its soul.”
When speaking to a friend who had grown up on the Amalfi coast, he separates the present experience from his memories of the past. In his recollections, the Amalfi coast was a place where creative minds went to find inspiration.
Writers and artists have for centuries travelled to this small part of Italy, today a UNESCO world heritage, to be seduced by the beautiful scenery, local traditions, and slow culture.
This place still exists today, if one only knows where to look.
The 20th century has been defined by the process of democratisation.
Things that used to be exclusive – education, international travel, exotic food, fresh roses in February – are now easily accessible. Paradoxically, this means that the original appeal has been lost.
The author and philosopher Kahlil Gibran encouraged his readers, in his seminal book The Prophet: “Travel and tell no one, live a true love story and tell no one, live happily and tell no one, people ruin beautiful things.”
I don’t know if Gibran ever visited Positano, but regardless, his philosophy still applies.
Once an elegant small fishing town, its reputation has unfortunately grown larger than the village itself.
From early morning until late at night, the small alleys are overcrowded with people eager to explore the mythical elegance of the Amalfi coast. It’s hectic, loud and noisy, the complete opposite of the image of old Positano.
Things were made even worse when Kylie Jenner made a pit-stop at historic hotel Le Sirenuse.
Once a fashionable place to have a drink, dinner or even stay a few nights, but ever since Jenner’s social media posts of her birthday party on the hotel’s terrace, the hotel has been swarmed by people wanting to have their photo taken here.
However, the two Le Sirenuse-shops on the opposite side of the street are still excellent, and a good place for stylish looks from small-scale brands.
Positano is probably not the place you will want to stay during your trip to the Amalfi coast.
But, as my friend explained, there are still places that have plenty of the original Amalfi vibe.
One of the most obvious choices is Amalfi town.
Amalfi town is, as the name alludes to, one of the most important towns along the coastline.
Many travel here for a day trip, which means that it is quiet and peaceful both in. the mornings and in the evenings.
The best place to stay in Amalfi town is the iconic Miramalfi, situated just outside of the town centre, suspended on the cliffs overlooking the ocean, and with its famous beach club giving guests the option between swimming pool and the ocean.
Miramalfi also has a smart bar and an elegant restaurant, so don’t be surprised if you end up seeing more of the hotel than of the surrounding sights.
Since it first opened in 1956, it has been owned and operated by the same local family, and this connection to the history of Amalfi is very much still present in the hotel’s atmosphere.
Between Amalfi and Ravello sits Atrani, Italy’s smallest village (but with the highest population density in the province of Salerno).
When you visit, you will almost immediately recognize its silhouette, as many of the most famous images of the Amalfi Coast depict its small mediaeval centre, with its impossible-to-miss belfry.
Many who pass through it will not even realise that it is a separate town and thus drive right through it, making it the perfect place for those wanting a more relaxed type of holiday, away from the crowds.
After Altrani comes the jewel of the Amalfi Coast, Ravello.
The reason that this town – where internationally renowned actors, authors, and intellectuals, such as André Gide, Greta Garbo, Gore Vidal, D.H. Lawrence, and Humphrey Bogart all have resided – is still unspoiled is its geographical location, away from the coastline.
Part of Ravello is, of course, by the coast. For example, small-scale and family-operated Hotel Villa San Michele is one of the best places to stay if visiting the Amalfi Coast.
The family is friendly, the place unassuming, but with a spectacular view of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The hotel has a terraced garden, its own restaurant with a menu that changes daily, based on what is available from local farmers, and two sundecks for visitors, one with a view and one with direct access to the ocean.
The ”real” village of Ravello is however not by the ocean but sits perched on a cliff, 350 metres above the sea, with dramatic views of the surrounding area. Its “terrazza infinito”, deep in the gardens of the Villa Cimbrone, was famously featured in the key moment in the film Tenet, chosen because of how the view would underscore the severity of the scene.
The garden is one of the most beautiful in Italy, and is also home to the luxurious Hotel Villa Cimbrone, perfect place to stay for those who prefer to lounge by the pool and go for slow walks in the picturesque adjacent town.
Ravello is also where the truly rich and famous prefer to stay.
Along Via San Giovanni del Toro, several sumptuous luxury hotels are lined up.
One of the most lavish is Palazzo Avino, formerly a 12th century private villa, but operated as a hotel since 1997.
The hotel’s outdoor pool is 20 metres long, but don’t miss their Beach Club House, only a 15-minute drive from the hotel, by the sea.
The most personal hotel choice in Ravello town is Palazzo Confalone.
Make sure to book a room in the original building, once a palace where the noble family Confalone lived, when they relocated to Ravello from Scala.
The outdoor terrace is a lovely place for lunch or an aperitivo, with some of Ravello’s best views.
What do you do once you have settled into your hotel on the Amalfi coast?
My recommendation is to take the advice of my local friend and embrace the slow local culture.
Take your time, enjoy sunbathing or going for a swim.
Read a book or try to sketch the sunrise.
Perhaps you want to go on a daytrip? Capri is only a short boat-ride away.
Don’t miss Villa San Michele in Anacapri, the spectacular villa built by Swedish author (and the Swedish queen’s personal physician) Axel Munthe.
This is where royalties and celebrities of Munthe’s time would meet when in Italy.
Another perfect excursion is to take the boat to Sorrento.
Often referred to as “the gateway to the Amalfi Coast”, Sorrento is a lovely place for a visit.
If you’re interested in architecture, don’t miss Hotel Parco dei Principi, designed by Gio Ponti and formally part of Italy’s cultural legacy.
Other great destinations for smaller excursions are the towns of Maiori, Minori, and Cefalù.
Closer to Salerno (from where you can take the train anywhere you want to go in Italy), these towns have generally catered less to mass tourism, which means that they still have an authentic, rustic atmosphere.
These are the places of old Italy, still available to anyone with an interest in authentic living, Italian history and slow culture.
To stay
La grande dame of Positano, still elegant, if a tad over-exploited at the moment.
Family-owned, beautiful hotel with the coast’s best swimming pool. In Amalfi.
Perhaps the most lavish hotel in Ravello. Complete peace and quiet, for both body and mind.
Our favourite destination on the Amalfi Coast. Once you’ve stayed here, you will find it difficult to stay anywhere else. In Ravello.
Elegant former noble palazzo in a refined part of Ravello. Book a room in the original building.
A modernist landmark, designed by Gio Ponti, in large garden with private beach club.
In Sorrento
To eat and drink
Ravello
Al fresco dining with Ravello’s best views.
Iconic restaurant, part of Hotel Villa Cimerone, specializing in traditional Italian cuisine.
Palazzo Avino’s restaurant has a well-deserved Michelin-star.
Amalfi
For dinner only. Fine dining, so dress accordingly.
La Preferita
Amazing, home-cooked meals, in an original setting.
Prepare to be entertained.
To see
One of the most beautiful parks in Italy.
Wonderful villa on Capri, with a fascinating history.
Don’t miss the weekly concerts during summer.