Antwerp / Hybrid of Old and New

Antwerp is one of very few cities that has its own colour. In the 17th century, Antwerp was a net exporter of pigments and dyes. Many Flemish fabrics were also brought to Antwerp to be dyed – in colours like azurite, indigo, Verdigris, and lead white – before being exported. Venice was the centre for distribution of pigments in southern Europe, while Antwerp held the same position for the northern regions.

The “Antwerp blue” is known as a rich, transparent kind of blue, a softer version of the Prussian blue, which was the first synthetic blue pigment (made by German chemist Johann Jacob von Diesbach in the early 1700s).

In the 16th century, the art market of Antwerp was one of the world’s advanced, with painters such as Quentin Metsys, Jan Gossaert, and Pieter Bruegel the Elder taking up residence in the city. In Antwerp, as well as in other places, art and finance have always gone hand in hand.

The developing of other creative industries, such as tapestry weaving, diamond cutting, silk weaving, glass work and woodcarving, attracted some of the most skilled workers to come here, together producing the style that has come to signify this region, and which is so undeniably Flemish.

Antwerp is not only a place of historical opulence, but also marked by an informal and bohemian atmosphere. In summer evenings, many gather in public areas to relax and drink beer. Another aspect to Antwerp is the strong presence of the Jewish orthodox community, noticeable particularly in the Diamond Quarters close to the iconic Central Station.

The station is a remnant from the time when travelling was a rare luxury, and embarking on a train journey was to be viewed as the beginning of an adventure, while also arriving at one’s destination would be a source of celebration.

A Hybrid of Old and New

Le Corbuiser had a vision of the future of cities that entailed people living in massive, modernist skyscrapers, neatly organised in ways that facilitated both transportation and recreation between the giant towers. If he ever visited Antwerp, he would probably have been disappointed by the small and human scale of the town.

In recent years, the city has undergone a radical transformation, especially in the north part, where new buildings continue to reshape the city’s skyline. But even in this area (strongly reminiscent of the Isola neighbourhood in Milan), the humanity of the scale is still noticeable.

The human scale of Antwerp is what sets it apart from many other places. With only approximately 500,000 inhabitants, it is a town made for walking. The city has both an underground metro and a tram system, but most days there is no need to use either, as it is possible to walk or bike more or less everywhere.

To many Americans, visiting Antwerp can bring about a certain déjà vu – even during the first visit, there is something strangely familiar about the layout and the architecture. This is actually not so strange, as many emigrants from Belgium and the Netherlands were inspired by their former homes when settling down in America.

In cities like New York, many streets are built in the image of towns such as Antwerp, with small (often only three or four stories tall) townhouses placed in long rows along quiet streets.

Where to Stay

Boulevard Leopold Rooms and Suites is housed in a three-storey, 19th century townhouse, a bed & breakfast that used to be the personal home of its owner. It sits in the orthodox Jewish district, close to several excellent restaurants and nice bars.There are only five rooms, or more accurately, three rooms and two suites, one on the first floor and one on the top. This means that staying here is a more private affair, meant for those who prefer spending their time in Antwerp relaxing to socialising in a busy bar.

All rooms in the B&B are different, but each is true to its specific theme. Most guests prefer the suite on the first floor, as this comes with a separate living room, facing the boulevard in front of the building, while also offering a spacious bathroom in the back.

Breakfast is held in the breakfast room, just behind the large living-room, where every morning, a simple but rewarding, Belgian breakfast – including fresh orange juice, fresh fruit salad, bread and eggs – is set-up.

As it is a B&B, there is no cleaning service and no one to disturb you, once you have settled in.

Hotel Julien is a well-designed, family-owned hotel in central Antwerp. Cosy yet elegant.

August. Comfortable hotel, with a nice restaurant and bar, a short walk from the city centre.

Graanmarkt 13. Apartment with large terrace to rent above the shop Graanmarkt 13. Perfect for a family or group of friends who want to splash out.

Botanic Sanctuary Antwerp. Small and almost brand new luxury hotel in central Antwerp.

Where to Eat and Drink

Orso Pizzeria is an informal neighbourhood restaurant with a good selection of natural wines.

The Jane. Fine dining in former chapel and perhaps the most famous of all Antwerp restaurants.

Dóme is a beautiful restaurant in the Zurenborg district.

August. Pleasant restaurant and bar, in the summer with a secluded terrace for drinks.

t’Hofke. A charming, family-run bistro situated in Antwerp’s oldest alley, de Vlaeykensgang, near the Cathedral.

Sir Anthony Van Dijck. Also in de Vlaeykensgang, and focused on seasonal ingredients. An elegant restaurant in a central (yet secluded) part of town.

Graanmarkt 13 – Sustainability-focused restaurant, perfect for a long lunch.

Frites Atelier – Best-known (and best tasting) frites of Antwerp. Quality fast food.

Art and Fashion

In many ways, Antwerp is distinctly Belgian. Situated in-between two strong and dominant neighbours – Germany and France – the country has been invaded more times than they can count. As a strategic response, the Belgians have developed a strange, surreal kind of humour. It is visible in the art of Magritte and in the celebrity of Manneken Pis – a small boy peeing – but it is present also in the everyday as a quirkiness that is both subtle and constantly present.

The landmark museum Art aan de Stroom, or MAS for short, was designed by the Rotterdam-based architect bureau Neutelings-Riedijk Architecten. Surrounded by water on all sides, the museum houses several important collections, outlining the history of the city. At the same time, it is possible to visit the building simply to experience the architecture and the 360 degrees-view of the city, as the stairs circle around the interiors, before finally ending up on the rooftop terrace.

One of the most famous places in Antwerp, with strong connections to European art history, is Rubenshuis (or Rubens’ house).

Bought in 1610 by the artist Peter Paul Rubens, one year after his marriage to Isabella Brant, it was remodelled to resemble an Italian palazzo. The courtyard is still in the Baroque style that Rubens designed. He would come to spend most of his life here.

It is not only art and architecture that has made its mark on the town of Antwerp. Linda Loppa, one of the most influential names in international fashion, was for 25 years the director of the fashion department at Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts. In this role, and also using her own personal network, she would connect emerging Belgian fashion designers with the French fashion industry, thus facilitating the emergence of the contemporary Belgian fashion scene.Historically speaking, Martin Margiela – one of the most significant proponents of deconstructive anti-fashion – is the one that has had the most significant impact on fashion.

Dries Van Noten is another strong, creative force in Belgian fashion. His flagship store, Het Modepalais, on Nationalestraat 2, is one of the most beautiful stores in Antwerp, with womenswear displayed on the ground floor and menswear on the first floor. Known for never having produced traditional advertisement for the fashion house, the stores are where the brand identity is communicated in the most coherent and effective way.

A complement to the contemporary brands, one of Europe’s oldest and most prestigious glove shops, Ganterie Boon, is situated on Lombardenvest 2. In business since 1884, this family-run company offers gloves in different models, shapes, materials and colours, all handmade in Italy, France and Hungary, which ensures that no two pairs of gloves are exactly the same.

Steen en Been. is one of our favourite shops in the world. Chorals, minerals and similar natura items are sold here.

Fomu – Antwerp’s museum of photography, while Royal Museum of Fine Arts of Belgium is the largest art museum of Antwerp. MoMu is one of the most cutting-edge fashion museums of the world, recently reopened after several years of renovation.

Antwerp is not only about art and commerce but also about relaxation. The small Botanical Garden, along Leopoldstraat, is more than 200 years old and has been managed by the city since 1926. Another place to unwind is the Béguinage d’Antwerp; a cluster of interconnected houses for members of a lay sisterhood in the Low Countries, built around a small park. Not exactly a convent, but nevertheless centred around a church.

If you feel like an excursion, go to Middelheim Museum, a sculpture park just outside of the city.

To visit: Zurenborg

Similar to Brussels, Antwerp is known for its beautiful Art Nouveau-buildings. The best examples can be found in Zurenborg, where buildings by prominent architects such as Joseph Bascourt, Émile Van Averbeke, Émile Thielens and Frans Smet-Verhas all are part of the neighbourhood.

The golden triangle of the area is along the streets Transvaalstraat, Waterloostraat and Cogels Osylei. The latter, in particular, has many interesting examples of various architectural styles.

A Day Trip: Bruges

Nearby Bruges is considered one of the most beautiful towns of Western Europe, known as “the Venice of the North”. During the two world wars, when many other surrounding cities were bombed and their ancient city centres destroyed, Bruges remained unharmed.

Ever since the 14th century, when the Hanseatic League founded the world’s first stock exchange here, Bruges has experienced a great financial success, which led to the creation of particularly lavish and richly decorated houses here.

Throughout the centuries, the richness and beauty of the town continued to grow, which only solidified its reputation as a place to visit.

As with all treasures, many people feel drawn to come here, to personally experience the unique qualities that only can be experienced here. However, as more and more people haven chosen to spend time here, the more crowded it has become, and the less magical the experience is. 

To truly enjoy the beauty of Bruges, make sure that your visit extends into the evening. Many will visit only for a few hours during the day, and leave once the sun begins to set. This is when Bruges slowly is transformed into its former grand self, and visitors can have the entire town for themselves. The popular canal cruises are paused for the night and the water becomes completely still, creating the most mystical of illusions, as the buildings appear to continue on the other side of the water surface, as though an entire other city was hidden in the canals.

Late evenings and early evenings reveal the city in all its glory, as a recollection of what it used to be, before the crowds found their way here.

But even in daytime, there are a few quiet places for reflection, like the Begijnhof Ten Wijngaarde, the only preserved beguinage in Bruges. Since 1927, it has functioned as a convent for Benedictines. The complex was founded in 1244 and includes a gothic church and about thirty white painted houses, the oldest dating back to the late 16th century. For hundreds of years, Bruges was also known for its lace production, in no small part created by the women living here.

Links

Hotels

Boulevard Leopold Rooms and Suites Informal B&B, preferred by those working in the creative industries (and Scandinavians in general, for some reason).

Hotel Julien. Preferred by those in the fashion industry, centrally located but still in a quiet and private part of Antwerp.

August, owned by the same couple who runs Hotel Julien, bur slightly outside the city centre, in a place with all the comforts you can imagine. A stone’s throw from The Jane.

Graanmarkt 13. One large apartment, with large terrace, to rent above the lifestyle shop Graanmarkt 13. Extravagant but worth it if travelling in a large group, or if the reason for the trip is a celebration.

Botanic Sanctuary Antwerp. The newest addition to Antwerp’s hotel scene. Small luxury hotel, with indoor swimming pool, in central Antwerp.

To Eat and Drink

Orso Pizzeria is an informal neighbourhood restaurant with good selection of natural wines.

The Jane. Fine dining in former chapel and perhaps the most famous of all Antwerp restaurants.

Dóme is a beautiful restaurant in the Zurenborg district.

August. Pleasant restaurant and bar, in the summer with a secluded terrace for drinks.

t’Hofke. A charming, family-run bistro situated in Antwerp’s oldest alley, de Vlaeykensgang, near the Cathedral.

Sir Anthony Van Dijck. Also in de Vlaeykensgang, and focused on seasonal ingredients. An elegant restaurant in a central (yet secluded) part of town.

Graanmarkt 13 – Sustainability-focused restaurant, perfect for a long lunch.

Frites Atelier – Best-known (and best tasting) frites of Antwerp. Quality fast food.

Shops

Dries Van Noten, Nationalestraat 16. The most beautiful shop in Antwerp and the best fashion brand to come out of Belgium.

Ann Demeulemeester, Leopold de Waelplaats. Worth to visit for the dressing rooms alone, but also of course for the clothes. Deconstructed, contemporary fashion.

Steen en Been. not to be missed, is one of our favourite shops in the world. Chorals, minerals and similar natura items are sold here.

Sights

MoMu is known internationally for their cutting-edge fashion exhibitions.

Fomu – Antwerp’s museum of photography

Royal Museum of Fine Arts of Belgium is the largest art museum of Antwerp, recently reopened after a renovation lasting more than a decade.

MAS is Antwerp’s ethnographic museum.

Rubenshuis is a piece of Italian renaissance architecture, with a Belgian twist. Definitely worth a visit.