French Basque Coast / The Ocean is Forever

What makes the Basque coastline so different to anything else? The location, by the Atlantic Ocean, makes it seem as though it’s balancing on the brink to eternity.

The vastness of the ocean creates a sense of solitude, while the salt water brings a freshness and clarity to the air.

Everything seems more vibrant here: The cliffs are more dramatic, the sea appears to have a personality of its own, and the local language is strange and mystical. The latter is because linguistically speaking, the Basque language is a “language isolate”, meaning that it is unrelated to any other existing language.

The Basque people are indigenous to this area, where the ancient language is spoken by less than 30 percent of the inhabitants (and most of those people tend to live south of the border, on the Spanish side).

Today, Basque is the only surviving language isolate in Europe and is thought to date back to prehistoric times. The reason it has been able to survive is that the Roman Empire was not as strong in this part of the world as in others, allowing the local culture to thrive in ways it did not in places closer to Rome. 

The allure of the region is particularly present in the French part of the Basque country. On the Spanish side, much of the land has been industrialised, while the French side has retained its elegant character.

A Royal Surf City

The modern history of Biarritz has been shaped by a small group of people, in many ways more different from one another than they were similar: Emperor Napoleon III and Empress Eugénie, and author and screenplay writer Peter Viertel (for many years married to Deborah Kerr).The royal couple created the air of refinement and luxury that still marks the town, while the latter helped introduce surf culture, today is a major influence. 

In the 19th century, it was customary for the royal court to circulate between palaces. This served a dual function, it alleviated boredom among the ruling class while also connecting the elite to different parts of the country, strengthening the ties between the people and their rulers.

Every year in early May, the royal couple and their court moved to the Château de Saint-Cloud, for June and July, they travelled with a select few to the Palace of Fontainebleau, after which they moved to Plombières and then Vichy. Then a sejour in Chàlons-sur-Marne (present day Chàlons-en-Champagne) would normally follow.

Beginning in 1854, a September stop in Biarritz was added to the tour. After the royals’ first visit, they bought a large plot of land and built the château Villa Eugénie (the only palace that sits right on the French Atlantic Coast). Normally, they would stay here until November, enjoying the scenery and Basque nature. One of Biarritz’ most famous landmarks was actually (in part) created by Napoleon III: The “Rock of Virgin Mary” is named so after the Virgin Mary-statue that has been placed here in commemoration of when a group sailors in distress were guided back to shore by a divine white light.

Napoleon III decided to build a tunnel through the rock, and a few years later, Gustave Eiffel was asked to construct a bridge (still in use), connecting the rock permanently to the mainland.

The regular royal presence in Biarritz quickly turned the town into a fashionable resort. Close to their villa, la Chapelle impériale was built. Completed in 1865, it is characterised by an eclectic mix of styles, from Spanish–Moorish to Roman-Byzantine.

Today, it is the only building in Biarritz that hasn’t been altered since the Second Empire, but remains the same as the day it was completed. The same wide variety of aesthetic styles can be seen in many of the extravagant mansions that occupy this northern part of Biarritz.

In 1880, Villa Eugénie was sold. The new owners turned it into a combined hotel/casino. A few years later, in 1903, the villa was destroyed in a fire. Today, l’Hòtel du Palais lies where the villa once stood. The pink luxury hotel has 142 rooms and is built in the shape of a giant “E” (as in Eugénie).

The Beaches of Biarritz

The Sun Also Rises is considered Ernest Hemingway’s greatest novel. A roman à clef, the characters of the novel are loosely based on the people that were part of Hemingway’s social circles in Paris in the 1920s and 1930s.

In 1957, it was turned into a film, with Tyrone Power, Ava Gardner and Errol Flynn in the leading roles. The screenplay was written by Peter Viertel. Early on, it was decided it should be filmed in Biarritz, and on a recognizance mission the year before, its producer Richard Darryl Zanuck and Veritel travelled from Los Angeles to better get to know the film site.

Zanuck, an experienced surfer, had brought his surfboard with him, and was almost immediately called back to Hollywood in an emergency, leaving Viertel alone. Without his colleague but with Zanuck’s board still with him, he decided to try surfing, but broke the nose of the board on the rocks by La Grande Plage on his first attempt.

Regardless, he soon discovered not only the joy of surfing but also that the location of Biarritz, facing the strong winds of the Atlantic, provided ideal conditions. After Viertel’s first brief misadventures on Zanuck’s board, word quickly spread about the great surfing possibilities in Biarritz, and today, surfing culture is an integral part of Biarritz culture.

Biarritz’ smallest beach is just next to the old port, protected from the crashing waves by a natural formation of rocks. In the summer afternoon, the small beach tends to be very crowded, but early in the morning, almost no one is here and it is perfect for a quiet morning swim.

La Grande Plage is the largest and most popular one, stretching from the old port, past the casino and l’Hôtel du Palais, all the way to the lighthouse. The intense force of the ocean is directly noticeable, as the waves (having built their force for miles and miles out in the Atlantic Ocean) come to a full stop by crashing towards the beach.

Surfers however tend to prefer the equally large la Plage de la Côte des Basques, on the other side of town. As Biarritz is on the Atlantic Coast, the tide will mark the time of day. Tides are caused by the combined effects of the gravitational forces from the moon and the sun, combined with the rotation of the earth. This means that the beaches of Biarritz will look different depending on what time of day it is.

The strong tidal effects are part of the general impression of nature being a particularly strong force in and around Biarritz: the air is fresher, the wind stronger and the ocean has more energy than in almost any other place in France.

As through a strange coincidence, the tidal movements of the ocean parallel the hidden meaning of Hemingway’s novel. Hemingway included two epigraphs (which refers to an initial quote, placed before the beginning of the first chapter) in the book, one referencing “the lost generation” of young men and women coming of age after World War I. The other was a quotation from Ecclesiastes:

“One generation passeth away, and another cometh, but the earth abideth for ever. The sun also ariseth, and the sun goeth down, and hasteth to his place where he arose.”

In a letter to his editor, Hemingway confided that the book was actually not so much about the fleeting experiences of one particular generation, but rather about the permanence of earth. In the larger scope of things, individual human experiences are ephemeral, small sparks of light in a vast universe that will continue to exist, regardless of what we humans do. Or, translated to the rhythmic tidal flows at the beaches of Biarritz: Waves will come and go, but the ocean is forever.

To Stay in Biarritz

Le Chàteau du Clair de Lune – 19th century manor estate, 4 km from Biarritz, with a large park full of roses, magnolia and rhododendron.

Hotel Beaumanoir – Small hotel in a former private villa, walking distance to the central parts of town.

Hôtel du Silhouette – One of Biarritz’ oldest hotel, located in a 17th century mansion, redesigned by Patricia Ibanez. 

To Eat and Drink in Biarritz

Chez Albert – The best seafood restaurant in Biarritz.

L’ecaillerie – Oyster bar at the Halles Centrales.

Le Jardin (4 Av. Jaulerry) – Small and friendly vegan restaurant, in central Biarritz. 

Xuxu (8 bis Av. de la Reine Nathalie) –Vegan restaurant, focus on natural and local ingredients. 

Low-key Glamour: Guéthary

The town of Guéthary, with only a little less than 1,500 inhabitants, has been inhabited since the early 12th century, and gained notoriety in the 1920s when it became popular among artists, including Pablo Picasso and Paul Klee, who made Hótel Le Madrid the centre of their social life.

A few decades later, in 1962, Catherine Deneuve took her first surf lesson here, an image which perfectly captures the low-key glamour of this small seaside town.  

The fact that Guéthary was a hotspot in the early 20th century is evident in its architecture. Many of the most prominent buildings, including the former casino, are elegant interpretations of art déco, with whitewashed facades, terracotta-tiled roofs and woodwork painted either navy or deep-red, adaptations to traditional Basque building traditions.

The most perfect thing about Guéthary is that there is not much else to do but to sunbathe (and surf, if so inclined). That means that this is a place to relax in relative anonymity, far away from people who want to see and be seen.

Though elegant, it is still informal and focused more on well-being than appearances. For those who want a temporary taste of a more urban experience, the train connects the town with nearby Biarritz, Bayonne and Bordeaux. Perhaps this is why designer and journalist Julia Chaplin has called it, “the anteroom to paradise”.

For those not familiar, an anteroom is a sort of small waiting room, a room before another room. On the French Basque coast, Biarritz is undoubtedly the star, leaving Guéthary to take the perfect position of younger and more liberated sibling, away from the spotlight and slightly under the radar. 

To Stay in Guéthary

Hôtel Le Madrid – Guéthary’s number one cultural institution, offering only five rooms, some with ocean view. 

Hôtel Villa Catarie – Intimate and charming, in a traditional Basque villa, with beautiful, flowered garden. 

To Eat and Drink in Guéthary

Hôtel Briketenia – The restaurant of Hôtel Briketenia, with 1 star in the Michelin Guide. 

Ezkia – Locally sourced ingredients, combined in an unpretentious style, run by Marine Poughon and Olivier Henry, both of who trained at Guérard in Eugénie-les-Bains. Ten minutes from Guéthary. 

Café Le Madrid – The social centre of Guéthary, regardless of time of day. Stop by for a coffee, a drink, lunch or dinner. 

Hétéroclito bar – Surf-styled bar overlooking the ocean. 

La Ferme Ostalapia – Rustic and charming restaurant in the Basque countryside, a few minutes from Guéthary. 

Providence Guéthary – Natural wines and excellent food, throughout the day. 

Beach Days: Saint-Jean-de-Luz

Saint-Jean-de-Luz is more remotely located than similar towns on Côte d’Azur. The French Riviera is easily accessed from many countries, such as Italy, Switzerland and even Germany. In comparison, the Basque Country is relatively isolated. This works to its advantage, as the towns here have been more or less unaffected by the last decades of mass-tourism.

The town is a rare gem, a seaside town that has kept its allure and distinct personality. Nestled in the heart of a large bay between ocean and mountains, it has gone through several reincarnations through the years, from being a fishing port to a destination for wellness and vacationers, all the while remaining true to its distinct Basque history and charm.

The historic heart of the town is Place Louis XIV, surrounded by Maison Louis XIV and the Hôtel de Ville. This is where the mains streets, including Rue Gambetta, intersect, and where the narrow Rue de la République leads directly down to la Grande Plage.

The name of the square alludes to the historic event that took place here on June 9th, 1660, when Louis XIV, later known as the Sun King and coincidentally also born in the town, married Maria Theresa Infanta of Spain. For more than a month, the sovereign lived here with his large and sumptuous court. Witnesses from the ceremony describe the event as;

“Louis XIV, in all the splendour of youth and power, advances, radiant, preceded by Cardinal Mazarin. He is dressed in a suit covered with black lace, and a brocade and gold coat. Then, there is the Infanta Marie-Thérèse, dressed in a dress of silver cloth; over her shoulders, a violet cloak with a very long tail, strewn with fleur-de-lis; on her head a heavy crown of gold..."

It might seem strange for a royal wedding to take place in a small town such as this, but the reason was political. Since 1648, France and Spain had been at war with one another. The year before the wedding, a peace treaty had been signed by the border, in the nearby Pyrenees Mountains.

The wedding between the two young royals was to sign the peace deal between the two countries, a manifestation that they now would join forces rather than being enemies. This needed to happen on neutral ground, and Saint-Jean-de-Luz was located right in the middle between Paris and Madrid.

Ever since, several buildings and places are named both after the Spanish princess and the French prince. Maison de l’Infante in particular has continued to welcome royal visitors, including the grand-children of Louis XIV and Marie-Thérèse as well as Napoleon III and Empress Eugénie. 

To Stay in Saint-Jean-de-Luz

Grand Hôtel Thalasso & Spa –A truly classic hotel, with an impressive wellbeing and spa area, located almost right on the beach. Their restaurant, Aho Fina, is also worth a visit. 

Hôtel Parc Victoria – Only five minutes from the beach, this hotel, in a stately mansion, offers all the amenities one could wish for.

To Eat and Drink in Saint-Jean-de-Luz

Le Kaïku – Instagram-friendly gastronomic experience, based on the best ingredients of the area. Open for both lunch and dinner. 

Restaurant Ilura, La Réserve  – Deluxe restaurant of Hôtel Réserve, with plunging ocean view from the terrace. 

Les Lierres, Hôtel Parc Victoria – Restaurant at Hôtel Parc Victoria, serving local specialties from the Basque Country and the south-west of France. 

Instincts – Contemporary fine-dining in central Saint-Jean-de-Luz, with focus on fresh ingredients that are in season.