Bologna / Culinary Culture

Bologna is the capital of Emilia-Romagna, a region known for its ancient architecture and rich culinary heritage, as well as being the culinary heart of Italy. A Florentine acquaintance recently said, when she heard that we (on our hunt for a second home in Italy) were deciding between moving to either Tuscany or Emilia Romagna that we had to choose the latter, “even if only for the pasta” (she probably referred to tagliatelle and tortellini, which both originated here).

Visitors who come here often express amazement at the splendour of the old town, not having realised prior to their visit the extent of Bologna’s proud history.

Bologna is also to be reckoned with when it comes to intellectual capacities. Its university is one of the most renowned in Europe, and is considered an informal kind of “capital” of European academia.

Because of the university, many scholars and intellectuals will spend their entire lives in Bologna, adding to the culture and intellectual ambience of this town. And even though Bologna is ancient, the presence of the many students, both Italian and international, add a feeling of youthfulness to the city.

To Visit: Piazza Maggiore

At the centre of town is the largest and most famous piazza in Bologna, Piazza Maggiore. Built in the 13th century, it is still impeccably maintained and a natural meeting place for the locals.

Basilica di San Petronio is a Gothic masterpiece, and the seventh biggest church in all of Europe. San Petronio was the bishop of Bologna in the fifth century, and even though construction began in 1390, its main façade is yet to be finished. Works lasted for several centuries, until the “megalomaniac dream” of making the cathedral even bigger and more spectacular was put to a halt by Pope Pius IV, who made sure the building process was stopped before the project would cost even more money.

In 1655, Giovanni Domenico Cassini, an astronomer working at the university, calculated a meridian line inlaid in the paving of the left aisle. With its 66,8 metres, it is one of the largest astronomical instruments in the world, allowing for extremely precise measurements.

The sunlight enters through a hole in the church wall, projecting an elliptical image of the sun, which at noon falls exactly on the meridian line. Every day is different as to position and size, which aided Cassini in calculating the duration of the tropical year, the timing of equinoxes and solstices.

While at Piazza Maggiore, it is impossible to miss the burlesque Fountain of Neptune. It is one of Bologna’s most famed landmarks and it’s easy to understand why. Erected between 1564 and 1566, as a gift from Pope Pius IV, as a way of demonstrating the Papal presence in Bologna (as it had recently become incorporated into the Papal States).

The fountain is the result of a collaboration between architect Tommaso Laureti and Flemish sculptor Jean de Boulogne, known as Giambologna. It is almost four metres tall and weighs more than two tonnes and goes by the name of Il Gigante. Despite being commissioned by the church, the statue is far from religious. For one, it represents a pagan god.

When it was unveiled, Neptune was so muscular and manly that the statue was considered too sexual in appearance. The four sensual sea nymphs, squeezing water out of their breasts, didn’t exactly help either. Apparently, Giambologna was firmly intent on enlarging the size of Neptune’s private parts, but the church forbade him to do so. In retaliation, he designed the statue so that, from a certain angle, the outstretched thumb of his left hand seems to stick out from the lower abdomen.

Initially, it was not only a monument but had practical use as well, as residents would wash their clothes and vegetables in the fountain. To curb this practice, the fountain had to be fenced in, and the fence remained until 1888.

For those who think part of it looks familiar – you are right. The trident logo of Maserati, the car company founded in Bologna, is based on the trident of Neptune.

The world’s tallest leaning mediaeval tower was built between 1109 and 1119 in Bologna. Many towers and tall buildings were constructed in the Middle Ages. There were at least one hundred of them built by Bolognese families. The purpose was twofold; to display their power and to function as a military defence. 24 towers remain in the city today.

The two most prominent towers (in Italian, Le due torri) have become the symbols of Bologna. They are located at the intersection of the roads that lead to the five gates of the old ring wall. The taller one is Asinelli while the lower one is called Garisenda, names derived from the families that constructed the towers.

Many writers have included descriptions of the towers in their work, including Dante (in the Divine Comedy), Goethe (in his Italian Journey), and Dickens (in Pictures from Italy).

Where to Eat and Drink

When visiting the towers, don’t forget to stop by Paolo Atti & Figli. Since 1868, this small store has offered Bolognese classics, using the same unchanged recipes ever since the beginning.

Bologna is famous for its cuisine, and this is a truly local place, offering many traditional treats difficult to find outside of the region.

If you are looking for more than a quick snack or a souvenir, make sure to book a table at ristorante Da Cesari, only a few minutes from Piazza Maggiore. Once a simple osteria, since 1955 it has been owned by the Cesari family, and today it is considered the meeting place for locals (as well as a hot spot among visitors). The cuisine is typical of the regional traditions, and all pasta is (of course) home-made.

In fact, the many excellent restaurants and local recipes made Bologna “Food capital of the world” in 2022. Bologna and Emilia-Romagna are the birthplace of balsamic vinegar, mortadella, and parmesan cheese.

Because Bologna is not as well-visited as many other Italian cities, the restaurants here have kept their authenticity.

Trattoria Bertozzi is famous for its pasta.

I Portici, set in the Eden theatre, was first established in 1899 and is now a Michelin-starred restaurant.

The most famous of the local wines in the region are Sangiovese, Lambrusco, Albana, and Pignoletto, while there are many PDO (protected designation of origin) and PGI (protected geographical indication) products from the area, including PDO Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, PGI Funghi di Borgotaro, PGI Asparago Verde di Altedo, PDO Formaggio di Fossa di Sogliano, PDO Casciotta d’Urbino, and PDO Aglio di Voghiera. One of the most famous is of course PDO Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena è Reggio Emilia.

To See: Portico di San Luca

Many people come to Bologna to discover and experience the many covered walkways. The most famous one is the Portico di San Luca, connecting the town with the Basilica di San Luca, a sanctuary on top of a hill.

Beginning at Porta Saragozza, the Portico di San Luca is an uninterrupted covered walkway, almost four kilometres long, that takes you from the plain to the hills with a 215 metres elevation gain. The uphill stretch begins at the Arco dei Meloncello, a Baroque overpass that allows people to walk without being disturbed by traffic.

The story of the walkway goes back to 1192, when a young woman founded a sanctuary where the Basilica now stands. After her death, a monastic community remained, guarding an image of the Virgin with Child, said to have been painted by Luke the Evangelist. In 1433, hoping that it would cease the rain that had fallen for three months, the sacred image was brought into the city.

As soon as the image reached Porta Saragozza, the rain stopped. Every year since, the image is brought from the Basilica to the Cathedral of San Pietro, carried on the shoulders of by members of the Confraternita dei Domenichini. In 1655, the portico, with 666 arches in total, was constructed.

Porticos can be found not only along the San Luca path, but all over the city. Since the Middle Ages, elegant porticos have been a place for business and cafés. They have been used as a meeting place and as a mode of transportation, offering shelter from the elements for the town’s inhabitants. In total, the city built 53 kilometres of porticos between 1300 and 1900 AD.

The reason for the porticos was not the weather, but the popularity of the town. The reputation of the university attracted many people to Bologna, which meant that there was an increased need for housing and for trade. Not wanting to build outside of the city walls, the officials required buildings to add extra space by extending outwards towards the street, but only on their second story or higher. These new floors were held up with wooden beams, later replaced with marble or brick. This is what resulted in covered arcades for walking.

No other city in the world has as many porticos as Bologna, making them an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The University of Bologna was founded in 1088 and is the oldest university in the world in continuous operation, as well as the first degree-awarding institution of higher learning. This is also where the word “universitas” was first coined.

As part of the medical school, the Anatomical Theatre of the Archiginnasio was constructed. First in 1995, but since 1637 in its current location, following the design of architect Antonio Levanti. It reached its final shape in the 18th century, when the twelve wooden statues of ancient physicians (like Hippocrates and Galenus) were added. It was all but destroyed during the bombings of the Second World War, but was rebuilt, using all the original pieces found in the rubble of the building.

Where to Stay: Il Borgo Del Balsamico

Though famous for its cuisine, Bologna is not a town of great hotels. Instead, we recommend that you stay slightly outside the city centre, at Il Borgo Del Balsamico, which manages to combine a relaxed attitude with a feeling of old-world splendour. This B&B and aceto balsamico producer is owned and operated by two sisters, Cristina and Silvia Crotti. They had already worked together for many years, in their father’s business, when they decided to turn the family’s homespun balsamic vinegar into a viable craft business.

The B&B is in every sense a slow kind of place, where people come to unwind, relax, and enjoy the local cuisine. There are only nine rooms, all surrounded by a large garden which also includes an outdoor swimming pool (and a chicken coop, obviously). This is a place where time seems to stand still, even though it also has all modern amenities one could wish for.

The location feels secluded, though it’s only a few minutes by car from the town centre. There is not much to do, which is perfect for taking a nap, going for a stroll in the rose garden, visiting the chickens, or simply lounging by the pool with a book. Breakfast is served in the old barn and includes (very locally sourced) eggs and other culinary treats particular for Emilia Romagna.

A fundamental part of staying here is taking part in a balsam vinegar tasting (similar to a wine tasting, but with less of a headache afterwards). Traditional balsamic vinegar has been produced for centuries in the province of Reggio Emilia (and by the Grotti family since 1970, as part of a family tradition). At Il Borgo, it’s possible to visit the rooms where the process is occurring, and to see firsthand the more than a decade long process of producing the vinegar. It is derived from the double fermentation of cooked grape must (which was used already in the 5th millennium B.C.).

Since 2004, the Grotti sisters have offered three different types of aged balsamic vinegar – with a maturation period of 12 years, 14 years or no less than 25 years, respectively – depending on which kind of dish you are preparing. All their products contain only natural ingredients, grown and produced in Italy.

Day-Trip: Reggio Emilia

If you think you have seen enough of Bologna, there are plenty of other beautiful towns in Emilia Romagna. Less than twenty minutes away from Il Borgo del Balsamico is an ancient town that not many foreigners visit, yet it’s just as beautiful as nearby Bologna (but smaller, making it easier to visit by foot).

Reggio nell’Emilia, mostly referred to simply as Reggio Emilia (or just Reggio by the locals) is surprisingly pleasant. Its old town has a hexagonal shape (an effect of how the ancient walls were built as a form of defence). Following centuries of conflict and war, a period of prosperity began in the late 12th century. Schools in trade and art were founded and the town was decorated by statues and ornaments, but soon again, Reggio found itself drawn into feuds, both internally and with other towns.

In 1796, Reggio was the place where the Risorgimento – the movement that led to the unification of Italy – first emerged, during a clash with the Austrian army. One year later, the new Italian national flag was sewn by Reggio women, presented on January 7th and today the town is known as “The City of the Tricolour”.

In Reggio, it’s easy to wander aimlessly. This is also what we would recommend. A square not to miss is Piazza Martiri del 7 Luglio, commemorating the loss of five workers’ lives in 1960, during a trade union demonstration.

Adjacent to this piazza is Piazze della Vittoria, home to several monuments and museums. From this square you can reach Parco del Popolo, the public gardens of the town. One of the most picturesque squares is Piazza Fontanesi, also known as “la Parisienne”. If your visit falls on a Saturday, make sure to come here for the farmers’ market where you can buy locally produced vegetables, fruits, and cheese.

The Basilica di San Prospero, in Piazza Prampolini, sits at the end of a portico called Vicolo Broletto (known as sotto Broletto). Here you will find artisan shops.

Reggio Emilia has several noteworthy museums: Palazzo dei Musei is the town’s main museum with scientific collections. Of course, there is a museum – Museo dei Tricolore – dedicated to the Italian flag. A more jarring experience is visiting the History of Psychiatry, where you can see the outline of the history of psychiatry in Italy.

If you’re looking for a genuinely traditional culinary experience, try paneda, the local bread soup, fried gnocco, or hannin (egg noodles).

On your way, make sure to stop and admire the design of the train station, located on the Milan–Bologna high-speed railway and Reggio Emilia-Guastalla railway.

Inaugurated in 2013, it was designed by architect Santiago Calatrava, who also designed the nearby bridges, making it a synchronised, coherent logistical area.

Links

Paolo Atti & Figli. Since 1868, this small store has offered Bolognese classics, using the same unchanged recipes ever since the beginning.

Da Cesari is only a few minutes from Piazza Maggiore in Bologna. Built as a simple osteria, since 1955 it is run by the Cesari family, and today it is considered the meeting place for locals (as well as a hot spot among visitors).

Bologna’s Trattoria Bertozzi is famous for its pasta.

I Portici, set in the Eden theatre, was first established in 1899 and is now a Michelin-starred restaurant.

Il Borgo del Balsamico combines a relaxed attitude with a feeling of old-world splendour. This B&B and aceto balsamico producer is owned and operated by two sisters, Cristina and Silvia Crotti.