THE TWO SIDES OF TRAVELLING
“It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was the age of wisdom, it was the age of foolishness, it was the epoch of belief, it was the epoch of incredulity, it was the season of light, it was the season of darkness, it was the spring of hope, it was the winter of despair.”
Visiting Bruges in the summer months, especially during daytime, can be an unpleasant experience.
The small, beautiful alleys are crowded with people, the traffic makes the air smell of pollution and everything that is for sale appears to be cheap souvenirs. For many years, Bruges – together with other European places such as Amsterdam, Mallorca and Santorini – has been used as an example of what can go wrong when mass-tourism is taken too far.
The entire town feels like one giant factory, with visitors passing through, taking selfies for social media posing by the River Reie before moving on to the next place. At times like this, Bruges could truly represent “the worst of time”.
“The reason that Bruges can be so awful to visit is that it is considered to be one of the most beautiful towns of Western Europe, generally known as ‘the Venice of the North’.”
The reason that Bruges can be so difficult to visit is, however, that it is considered to be one of the most beautiful towns of Western Europe, generally known as “the Venice of the North”.
During the two world wars, when many other surrounding cities were bombed and their ancient city centres destroyed, Bruges remained unharmed.
Ever since the 14th century, when the Hanseatic League founded the world’s first stock exchange here, Bruges has experienced a great financial success, which led to the creation of particularly lavish and richly decorated houses here.
Bruges’ most prosperous era was the 15th century, reflected in the increase in Flemish art, which would pave the way for the Northern Renaissance. Thus, Bruges also represents “the best of times”.
Throughout the centuries, the richness and beauty of the town continued to grow, which only solidified its reputation as a place to visit.
As with all treasures, many people feel drawn to come here, to personally experience the unique qualities that only can be experienced here.
However, as more and more people haven chosen to spend time here, the more crowded it has become and – regrettably – the less magical the experience is.
“If the days in Bruges are stressful and crowded, the nights are completely different.”
If the days in Bruges are stressful and crowded, the nights are completely different. Many will visit only for a few hours during the day, and leave once the sun begins to set.
This is the time that Bruges slowly is transformed into its former grand self, and visitors can have the entire town for themselves.
The popular canal cruises are paused for the night and the water becomes completely still, creating the most mystical of illusions, as the buildings appear to continue on the other side of the water surface, as though an entire other city was hidden in the canals.
Late evenings and early evenings reveal the city in all its glory, as a recollection of what it used to be, before the crowds.
But even in daytime, there are a few quiet places for reflection, like the Begijnhof Ten Wijngaarde, the only preserved beguinage in Bruges.
Since 1927, it functions as a convent for Benedictines.
The complex was founded in 1244 and includes a gothic church and about thirty white painted houses, the oldest dating back to the late 16th century.
For hundreds of years, Bruges was also known for its lace production, in no small part created by the women living here.
Bruges is a perfect example of the complex issue that travelling poses to the curious. To travel is to expand one’s horizons and to learn about the world, but while doing so, one can also (and inadvertently) contribute to pollution and environmental damage. So, what should one do?
One strategy is to travel through literature, photography and film, exploring the unknown through the perception of creative minds.
Another strategy is to continue to travel, but to avoid the beaten path and keep distance between oneself and the commercial ways of mass tourism.
Travelling is an essential part of being human and connects us with one another, but it has to be done with the respect for local culture and for the environment. This perspective is in line with the sage (albeit cynical) advice of Kahlil Gibran:
“Travel and tell no one, live a true love story and tell no one, live happily and tell no one, people ruin beautiful things.”
