Lohi Capri Guide Sustainable travel

Above the entrance to Anacapri’s Casa Rossa, an inscription in Greek is carved into stone: “Greetings, citizens of the city of sweet doing nothing.”

The original owner, American colonel J.C. Mackowen, deliberately chose to write this in another language than Italian, as it is open to interpretation, one being less flattering to the local community.

Many visitors have come to Capri and found it to be an immense source of creativity for writing or producing art, while others have immediately become so enamoured with the slow lifestyle of Southern Italy that they end up doing not much at all, save enjoying the soft breeze and warm sunshine.

Perhaps the locals wouldn’t be so happy to be described as living in a city defined by “doing nothing.”.

Around the world, Capri is known as l’isola azzurra, or “the blue island”.

This is obviously not entirely correct; it’s not the island that is blue, but the water that surrounds it, famous for its turquoise hues.

The sea of the Bay of Naples has made Capri a popular destination for centuries. This is actually quite ironic, as getting to the sea to go for a swim is quite complicated on Capri. The dramatic cliffs create beautiful scenery, but also makes the sea inaccessible.

There are of course places to go for those desperate for a swim, but the best recommendation is to hire a boat (or even better, befriend someone with a yacht).

In high season, the island may be very crowded, with long lines to attractions like Grotta Azzurra. At these times, Capri appears less a relaxing getaway and feels more like a tourist trap.

The trick is to know that many visit Capri as a daytrip, while staying in nearby Naples or Sorrento. This means that in the mornings and evenings, the island is quiet and peaceful, just the way you imagined it.

Thus, make sure to make the most of the time before and after the tourists arrive, and you will fall in love with the island.

When arriving to Capri town, one of the first places that you will see will probably be the Piazzetta di Capri, informally referred to as Europe’s living room (because sooner or later, most people in Europe will end up here, enjoying an espresso or an aperitivo).

It is one of the most popular places of Capri town, and the perfect place for people spotting.

If you continue through the town, you will quickly find yourself on the other side of it. The town is actually quite small, only a few streets in size.

One of these streets, Via Tragara, is the most beautiful on the entire island. On one side of the street, you will see grand villas and estates, and on the other, a breath-taking view of Marina Piccola and the many visiting yachts.

Via Tragara will take you to one of the world’s most iconic beach clubs, La Fontelina, but be sure to book your sunbeds well in advance, as many have standing reservations.

The sun doesn’t always shine on Capri. On a rainy day, the best thing you can do (except simply staying in bed with the windows open, enjoying the scent of the rain) is to visit Museo Diefenbach, dedicated to the German painter Karl Wilhelm Diefenbach.

He lived in Capri since the beginning of the 20th century, often interpreting the island as a dark, magical landscape, full of symbols and signs.

The museum collection includes 31 canvases, five sculptures as well as statues depicting sea gods from the Roman era, originally found in the Grotta Azzurra.

The island’s most famous site is without a doubt Villa San Michele, created by the Swedish doctor and author Axel Munthe.

Here, he created a world for himself, and it soon became a main centre of European society, as royalties and intellectuals would include it as a mandatory stop when in Italy.

The garden has been named Italy’s most beautiful park, and the main building is today a museum.

It has served as inspiration for many homes around the world, including two near replicas in Sweden (of which one is the current summer residence for the Swedish royal family).

Every summer, once a week during high season, concerts are held in the park.

Casa Malaparte, on the eastern side of the island, is another famous villa, considered one of the best examples of Italian modern architecture.

It was conceived around 1937 by the Italian architect Adalberto Libera for Curzio Malaparte, but Malaparte rejected Libera’s design and built the home himself.

It is still a private property, so if you wish to see the interiors, you have to contact the owner.

Where to Stay

For a first-time visitor, the island might appear slightly confusing. The reason for this is that Capri is not only the name of the island but of the major town. There is however also another town, Anacapri. Not surprisingly, there are cultural tensions between sophisticated Capri and laidback Anacapri.

Many locals prefer to stay in one place, and rarely visit their neighbours in the other town. This is something to consider when choosing a hotel. If you stay in Capri town, you will be closer to the nightlife and shops. In Anacapri, you will be removed from the crowd and will have a more relaxed holiday.

The main hotel of Capri is in Anacapri.

Caesar Augustus is without a doubt the most luxurious choice when staying on the island. With a terrace that seems to go on forever, with the best view of Capri’s famous sunset, and an infinity pool that will make the ocean look less desirable, this hotel has all that you might ask for.

If Caesar Augustus, with its 49 rooms and 6 suites, is too big for you, Hotel Villa de Scale, only a stone’s throw from the famous Villa San Michele, might be more suitable.

Formerly a private villa, it sits in a secluded position in a large garden and comes with its own private pool.

As stated, Anacapri is slightly removed from the busiest part of the island.

If you fancy being able to walk home from a night on the town, Hotel La Scalinatella is a good option.

Built in the 1950s, it has retained its mid-century charm.

For a more traditional experience, with a smaller price-tag, we recommend Hotel Villa Krupp (but keep in mind, this stay requires you to not mind plenty of steps to walk up and down).

The most classic restaurant, not to miss for those looking for the complete Capri experience, is Al Grottino.

For over 80 years, the Arbace family has served excellent local cuisine according to Neapolitan traditions, in this charming venue, in the centre of Capri town.

Slightly hidden away, the truly excellent Pulalli is one of Capri’s best kept secrets. With a terrace overlooking the Piazzetta, this is the place to get away from the crowds while still being in the very heart of Capri.

For an alfresco dinner, almost nothing beats Da Paolino, where you eat under lemon trees. Make sure to book in advance – many consider this a mandatory Capri experience, so there might be a waiting list.

A more authentic experience, in Anacapri, is family-owned Da Gelsomina, which serves traditional island cuisine. This is one of Capri’s landmark restaurants, and the food here has been made by the same family for generations.

Da Gelsomina uses produce picked fresh from their own garden and serves the house white made from the family’s tiny vineyard.

Il Riccio is the beach club that belongs to Capri Palace in Anacapri, and one of the best places to combine swimming with a long lunch. It’s right next to Grotto Azzurro.

So, to briefly summarise – Capri still has plenty of its old-world glamour but remember: Keep busy in the mornings so that you do as the locals do; do little as possible at the time when the island is most packed with tourists.

When they begin to leave, around 5pm or so, start to prepare for a long and pleasant evening in the cool Capri breeze.