Galleria Doria Pamphilj

Category: Art & Architecture

Location: Rome, Italy

One thing to notice when visiting the Galleria Doria Pamphilj is the particular order of the paintings, which hasn’t changed over the course of time. 

Virtually every painting is still in its original place, a strange and unusual form of resistance against the ephemerality of human existence.  

The art collection was started by Pope Innocent X Pamphilj already in 1644, and one of its greatest treasures is the painting that Velázquez painted of the pope, showing exactly how he looked, which at the time was highly unusual. 

The pope was known as a vindictive man who led a despotic lifestyle, evident in the controversial portrait. It also broke the tradition of enhancing and idealising the features of the one being portrayed. 

This makes it one of the most important works in the history of art, as it thus can be considered one of the very first realistic artworks. 

Since 1927, the painting has been displayed in a small room, placed together with a sculptured bust of the same pope, by Bernini. 

The principal entrance is on the Via del Corso, adjacent to the church Santa Maria in Via Lata. Both the palazzo and the church are still owned by the princely Roman family Doria Pamhilj. 

The principal entrance is on the Via del Corso, adjacent to the church Santa Maria in Via Lata. Both the palazzo and the church are still owned by the princely Roman family Doria Pamhilj. 

The palazzo, which has increased dramatically in size over the centuries, is likely the largest in Rome that is still in private ownership. 

The developments were not without controversy.

The nephew of Pope Innocent X renounced the cardinalship that his uncle had bestowed on him, and instead married the widowed Olimpia Borghese, which was considered an extremely controversial action.

It was through her that the palazzo first came into the family Pamphilj’s ownership.

After marriage the couple took up permanent residence in the palace. Almost at the same time, they began demolishing neighbouring buildings to expand their home. 

Many who lived around them complained, but the couple continued with their plans. 

After they had passed on, new generations of the family kept expanding the building, adding new constructions.

The most famous part of the building is the four gilded and painted galleries surrounding a courtyard. 

The main art collection is displayed in several state rooms, including the chapel which is also home to the mummified corpse of the family saint. 

The collection is one of the largest private art collections in Rome and includes works by artists such as Titian, Raphael, and Caravaggio. Visiting the palazzo gives a rare insight into how the oldest and wealthiest of the Roman families have lived throughout the centuries, at the centre of political and economic power of Rome.