Hallstatt / Salt of the Earth

“Let us climb on the cliffs above the rooftops of Hallstatt. I say above the roofs, because the houses are built so close to the cliffs, that when you climb from the narrow bank of the lake below, you climb on what would be the first floor of the houses, behind which is a level path that looks down over the lake. In some places, there is no other path in Hallstatt as this one, like a sort of bridge spanned over the roofs of the houses. You must come with me, then, over the rooftops”

— Josef August Schultes, travel writer (1794) 

Hallstatt is Austria’s oldest village, surrounded by the Dachstein mountains and the forest Märchenwald. 

Already in 5000 BC, people lived here, working in Salzwelten, the world’s oldest salt mine, active for at least 7,000 years.

It is not difficult to understand why people would settle here: the area around the lake is by many considered one of the most beautiful places on earth, and Hallstatt is nicknamed “the pearl of Austria”. 

Officials in China became so enamoured with the town that they built a replica of it (to be found in the Bolou County, in south-eastern China, not far from Hong Kong). 

Many associate the Celtic civilization with Ireland and the United Kingdom, but in actuality it was born in Hallstatt – “hal” is the ancient Celtic word for salt. Between the mine and the shores of Lake Hallstatt, a small tribe of people begun to trade and travel, successively developing their networks and their wealth around this commodity.

Over time, the Celts created an empire that, at its height, stretched as far east as Turkey and as far west as Ireland, and included areas of Austria, Germany, Switzerland, Bohemia and parts of the Balkans.

The Hallstatt culture lasted from 1200 to 450 BC, or in other words, from the Late Bronze Age to Early Iron Age. Still today, there are traces of the Celtic elite in the burial grounds around Lake Hallstatt. Initially, it was their skilled iron craftsmanship that made them successful, and later on, it was salt from the mine. 

In the first half of the 19th century, a growing number of artists, writers and opinion leaders opposed the ongoing industrialization process, which they believed to be harmful. Instead of working towards a more efficient and mechanical society, they proposed a turn towards nature, which they viewed and interpreted through a romantic lens.

The Romantic movement developed within art, literature and music, as both an intellectual and artistic force. Its members tended to idealise nature, were suspicious of modern science and preferred to search for inspiration in emotional landscapes and mediaeval history.

For many artists of the time, Hallstatt was the perfect place to explore and develop the romantic style. Over the years, some of the most famous of the Austrian Romantic painters, such as Ferdinand Georg Waldmüller, Jakob Alt, Rudolf von Alt, Anton Schrödl and Friedrich Gauermann, lived and worked here.

They would try to capture the serenity of the lake, together with the wild torrents of clear water in the stream, with its numerous boulders. 

The colours of the stream change throughout the year, and the artists would paint regardless of season or outside temperature.

Waldmüller painted a total 15 pictures of Hallstatt, which were then sold at the Court in Vienna. This contributed to spreading the word on the beauty of Hallstatt, making the town and lake known outside of the region. 

The poet Wilhelm Raabe described his experience of Hallstatt, in 1884: 

“The place gives the impression of being vigorously shaken by a giant hand and thrown and stuck on to the perpendicular cliffs rising from the black lake. Where the roofs finish, the roads begin; in no other town on earth must it be so dangerous as here to get drunk.”

The lake, known as Hallstätter See in German, is named after the town, approximately 8,55 square metres and with a maximum depth of 125 metres. The town is situated on the southwestern shores, on the national road that links Salzburg with Graz. The general area is called Salzkammergut.

In high seasons, many will travel to Hallstatt to experience its mythical beauty, but off-seasons, the town is quieter and calmer, returning to the atmosphere that once lured artists and poets to the lake shores.

In the area around the town, a wellness culture has developed, due to the presence of natural salt water, used in a number of popular spa treatments around the area. You can travel here for the beauty of the place, or for the many treatments on offer by local spa institutions, or simply to walk, hike, and be in nature.

To stay

Bräugasthof – Dating back to the 15th century, currently maintained as a family-run guesthouse and brewery. 

Landhaus Koller – A few minutes from the lake by car, situated in a hillside Art Nouveau villa with pool.

Seehotel am Hallstättersee – Rustic hotel with view of Lake Hallstatt.

To Eat and Drink

Gasthof Höllwirt – Informal atmosphere and traditional cuisine. 

Wohlfühlhotel Goiserer Mühle – Family-friend spa-hotel with great restaurant.

Uferwirt Seeraunzn – Arrive by boat and enjoy the scenic view of the lake. 

Seewirt Zauner Hotel Restaurant – Traditional food and historic interiors in central 

Bräugasthof – Enjoy the brewery vaults or sit outside in the garden, under the 150-year-old chestnut tree, directly on the shares of Lake Hallstatt. Home-styled Austrian cuisine. 

To Visit

Salzwelten – Visit the 7,000 year old salt mine.

Dachsteinhöhlen (ice cave) –Discovered in 1910, it is famous for its frozen waterfalls and ice formations. 

Lake Hallstatt stroll – Enjoy the view from walking along Hallstatt’s main lakefront street.

Beinhaus (“Bone House” in English) – A room in St. Michael’s Chapel, filled with the skulls and bones of the village residents, often decorated with painted flowers and the family name, dating back to the 12th century. 

Boating on Lake Hallstatt – Go on the Stefanie Ferry, run by the Hallstatt Shipping Company, for a view of Hallstatt from the lake.