ART & ARCHITECTURE / PALAZZO COLONNA / ROME
For centuries, the Colonna family was one of the most influential families in Italy. Part of the papal nobility, the Palazzo Colonna in the centre of Rome has been the family’s residence for more than twenty generations. Originally built over the ruins of an old Roman Serapeum (a temple dedicated to the Greco-Egyptian deity Serapis), its oldest parts date from the 13th century.
The palazzo is actually more of a palatial block of buildings than simply one mansion, which means that to visit is to gradually move from one architectural experience to another. The outside garden, situated one floor above Via della Pilotta, is unexpectedly tranquil, despite being situated at the base of Quirinal Hill, one of the seven hills of Rome. From here, it is possible to venture even further up through the park, to see the rooftops of Rome from above. The palazzo has one more park, as Filippo Colonna (1578–1639) created a unitary complex around a central garden, on the opposite side of the street from the viewpoint of Giardino Colonna.
The fact that the palazzo has developed during the course of hundreds of years is evident in its complex structure, and it wasn’t until the 17th and 18th centuries that the current facades were completed. It’s main claim to fame is the Sala Grande, 70 metres long and decorated in a sumptuous Baroque style, complete with frescoes, chandeliers, marble floors and golden framed mirrors. On its walls are several important masterpieces, including works by Tintoretto, Bruegels, Titan and Caravaggio. Throughout history, art has been not only a way to express beauty but also to communicate influence and wealth, and the Colonna Art Gallery – one of the largest private art collections in Rome – succeeds in doing both.
Most visitors will be drawn to the opulence and grandeur of the Sala Grande and the adjoining Sala della Colonna Bellica, both completed in 1703 as a way to demonstrate the importance and cultural significance of the Colonna family (as important historical events where family members played key parts are depicted in the ceiling frescoes). Many are also intrigued to see the cannon ball that is still remaining in one of the steps leading down into the gallery, once fired by the French troops that supported the Pope in the battle with the army of the Roman Republic, under the command of Garibaldi, in 1849. However, not to miss, as its subtle elegance is perhaps even more refined than the dominant (and loud) Sala Grande, is the Appartamento Principessa Isabella. Isabella Colonna, née Sursock, moved to Italy from Lebanon, and lived for many decades in this apartment, situated on the ground floor of the palazzo. Containing a succession of several beautiful rooms, with frescoed walls and vaulted ceilings, it provides an insight into how members of the nobility could live during the 20th century, in historic surroundings but not without the comforts of modern life. The apartment has been preserved as it was when the princess passed in 1984, and mainly follows the style of the two famous women who lived here, not only princess Isabel but also Maria Mancini (1639–1715, lover of Louis XIV of France), whose décor is still present in the first hall of the apartment, entirely painted with the flowers of renowned Italian artist Francesco Corallo.
Throughout history, Rome has been the home of many influential family and thus holds a number of palaces, but Palazzo Colonna, and its art collection, is one of its most spectacular. The family still resides here, on the top floor, so visitors are only welcome into the palazzo two days a week, Fridays and Saturdays.
