GUIDE / ROME / LOOK BEHIND YOU
Anita Ekberg, dressed in a black dress and with a white cat perched on top of her head, followed by Marcello Mastroianni through the alleys of central Rome. For a moment, Mastroianni disappears, going to fetch some milk for the cat. In his absence, Ekberg arrives at Fontana di Trevi and steps into the fountain. A few minutes later, she is joined by Mastroianni. Suddenly, the water stops and everything goes quiet, as the sun slowly rises. The scene is one of the most famous in cinema history, not only for the actors but for the spectacular scenery. In the film, the magnificence and opulence of Rome is evident, from the ancient streets to the lavish historical monuments that are everywhere. When walking in Rome, you have to remember to not only focus on where you are going but also on what is around you. Look up, look to the sides and look behind you, so that you don’t accidentally miss out on something equally unexpected as spectacular. Walk slowly and take your time.
Fontana di Trevi
According to legend, Rome was founded by Romulus. When he and his twin brother Remus were born, they were put in a basket, placed in the river Tiber. Found by a wolf, they were nursed back to health by her, before being taken in by a shepherd. To honour the wolf that saved their life, the two decided to build a city on the site where the wolf had found them. The twins could not decide on where the city should be and during the argument, Romulus killed his brother. This is (at least according to the myth) why Rome carries his name and is placed where he wanted.
Galleria Sciarra
Rome was founded on seven hills, initially as several independent cities, which explains why it is difficult to define where exactly the city centre of Rome is. The city does not have one clear downtown area, but instead several centrally located neighbourhoods, which is an effect of how it once grew into one, unified city (which was easier to defend and less vulnerable than several smaller towns). The first inhabitants of the city were called Latins, as they came from the Plains of Latium. Already from the beginning, Rome was a wealthy city, which soon attracted enemies, especially the Etruscans and the Samnites. The Romans had to develop a strong and efficient army, and by 300 BC they controlled most of the Italian peninsula.
“The happiness of your life depends upon the quality of your thoughts.”
One of Rome’s most famous emperors was Marcus Aurelius Antonius, who lived between 121 and 180. Under his rule, the Roman Empire was involved in many military conflicts. While leading the wars, Marcus Aurelius also kept a personal journal, today known as the twelve books that together make up Meditations, considered one of the most central works in Stoic philosophy. In the texts, Marcus Aurelius advocates finding one’s place in the universe and understanding the basic laws of nature, being present in the now and to work without distractions: “The happiness of your life depends upon the quality of your thoughts.”
The history of Rome is so complex and rich that it is present in almost everything and every place in the city. For thousands of years, Rome has been one of the world’s most important centres of power, where dynasties have lived and worked, constructing palaces and even creating their own countries, such as the Vatican City (formally known as the Holy See), often defined as the only country to exist within the city of another country. However, this is not entirely true, as there is also another country present in Rome; the Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of Saint John of Jerusalem of Rhodes and of Malta, or the Sovereign Military Order of Malta for short. Together with Palestine and the Holy See, the order is one of three countries formally recognized by the UN as a country without land.
The Military Order of Malta has its own government and laws, and is ruled by a Prince and a Grand Master. In Rome, it is possible to visit Villa del Priorato di Malta. When looking through the villa’s ancient keyhole, you can see inside the garden, over the rooftops of Rome and across the Tiber to St. Peter’s Basilica in the Holy See, which means that you can simultaneously look at three different countries at the same time.
Knights of Malta Keyhole
Remnants of the Roman Empire can be found all over Europe, Western Asia and North Africa, its ruins bearing memory of what was once one of the most powerful empires in the world. This history and distinct architectural style inspired fascist dictator Benito Mussolini, when he planned part of his own capital city, today known as EUR and situated just south of central Rome. Never completed, it is still an architectural masterpiece, often portrayed in Italian TV series and films as filmmakers are continuously drawn to the area’s symmetrical stone buildings and the combination of Roman ideas and 20th century building techniques. In 1943, Mussolini was voted out of power by his own Grand Council and two years later he was executed. The buildings and the city plan that was put in place is a recollection of how even in recent history, Rome continues to be in the centre of important political events.
EUR / Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana
EUR / Palazzo dei Congressi
EUR / Palazzo dei Congressi
EUR / Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana
It is not surprising that Rome is home to the oldest museum in the world. Established by Pope Sixtus IV in 1471, the collection has continued to grow over the years, preserving and documenting Rome’s history. For centuries, art has been a symbol of wealth, visible primarily in places of power, such as cathedrals and castles, far from the homes of common people. When Musei Capitoline opened their doors, this was the first step to make art more accessible to the public, and as such of immense symbolic importance. The collection includes the Capitoline She-Wolf, which is an iconic rendering of Romulus and Remus suckling on a mother wolf and an internationally known symbol of Rome.
Musei Capitoline
The Galleria Doria Pamphilj, in Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, is home to Rome’s largest private art collection, and includes works by Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio and Titan, hung in ten beautiful spaces, including the throne room and ballroom. The interiors alone are worth a visit. The family was once of the most influential dynasties (Pope Innocent X was one its most prestigious members, and the portray of him, by Vélasquez, is on display in the gallery). Together with Palazzo Colonna, owned by the Colonna family since the 13th century and only a short walk away, it is one of the most impressive of Rome’s many palaces.
Galleria Doria Pamphilj
Galleria Doria Pamphilj
Palazzo Colonna
Palazzo Colonna
Palazzo Colonna
A very cleverly designed art museum is the Palazzo Altemps, only a few steps from Piazza Navona. The palazzo is built around an internal courtyard, with a frescoed loggia on the first floor. The museum is planned according to an idea of deconstruction, and so the walls, ceilings and floors are to a varying degree stripped away, at times exposing the building structure, at other times demonstrating how it would look with everything complete and in its place. This brings a sense of poetic elegance to the experience, as though it is possible to unpack and discover the structure of the building itself. Designed in the 15th century, with frescoes dating back to this time, it was once the home of the prestigious Altemps family. In the 19th century, it became the property of the Holy See, and granted to the Italian state in 1982. The collection includes many important sculptures from the Renaissance.
Palazzo Altemps
Palazzo Altemps
Palazzo Altemps
Not all of Rome’s wonders are inside the gates of palaces. The park of Villa Borghese stretches from the Aurelian Walls that connects Porta Pinciana to Piazzale Flaminio, and the Salario and Pinciano districts, built in the early 20th century. The park contains buildings, sculptures, ponds, monuments and fountains, along with Italian gardens and large free spaces. The construction of the Villa Pinciana was initiated in 1606 by Cardinal Scipione Caffarelli Borghese, together with the purchase of several adjacent vineyards, totalling eighty hectares. After the unification of Italy, a dispute began between the Borghese family and the Italian state, leading to Villa Borghese eventually being bought by the state and a few years later, sold to the Municipality of Rome, that subsequently opened it to the public.
Villa Borghese
Villa Borghese
Villa Borghese
There are also other kinds of treasures than art and architecture in Rome. The food is among the best in the world, with many trattorias having been around for decades, even centuries, often owned by the same family for generations. Italian wines are equally excellent, so there is no reason not to explore local dishes and traditional restaurants, including Trattoria da Teo (famous for their tortino di puntarella and buffalo mozzarella), Armando al Pantheon (the best trattoria in the historic centre) and Salumeria Roscioli (family-owned for 150 years and a frequent destination for those with a dedicated interest in Italian food).
To stay
Spacious hotel rooms in an elegant, aristocratic private palace in central Rome.
Via della Fontanella di Borghese 56
+38 06 886 1007
Beautiful villa in calm and peaceful neighbourhood
Via Piacenza 4
+39 06 4890 7934
Family-owned art deco-styled hotel, near Roma Termini.
Via Cavour 15
+39 06 488 4051
Located between the river and the Villa Borghese Park, close to Piazza del Popolo. Well-known for its stylish bar and charming terrace.
Via della Penna 22
+39 06 361 0841
Liberty-era villa turned into small hotel, slightly off-centre, decorated with art and antiques and situated in a fully-restored 1910s garden.
Lungotevere delle Armi, 22/23,
To eat
Trattoria da Teo
Historical trattoria in the heart of Trastevere
Piazza dei Ponziani 7/a
+39 06 581 8355
Family-owned trattoria a few steps away from the Imperial Forums
Via della Madonna dei Monti 9
+39 06 679 8643
Family-run with focus on Roman specialities.
Salita De’ Crescenzi 31
+39 06 6880 3034
A unique location, excavated inside the Monte Testaccio.
Via Monte Testaccio 97/99
+39 06 574 4149
A mandatory place to visit for those interested in Italian food culture.
Via dei Gubbonari 21–22
+39 06 687 5287
Founded in 1927, in the heart of the Jewish district.
+39 06 687 4216
Trattoria Monti
Family-run trattoria known for its friendly service and ambience.
Via di S. Vito 13
+33 06 446 6573
Seasonal based food and traditional cuisine.
Vicolo delle Bollete 13
+39 06 443 0495
Refined and elegant restaurant in the historical centre.
Piazza Nicosia 24
+39 06 689 6299
To visit
Mueso nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo – MAXXI
The first Italian public museum devoted to contemporary culture, art and architecture.
Via Guido Rani 4a
+39 06 320 1954
One of the oldest and largest private palaces in Rome.
Via della Pilotta 17
+39 06 678 4350
The largest private art collection in Rome.
Via dei Corso 305
+39 06 679 7323
An impressive collection of statues cleverly displayed in an elegant palazzo.
Piazza di Sant’Apollinare 46
+39 06 684 851
Beautiful park and interesting museum.
Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5
+39 06 841 3979
The world’s oldest museum still open to the public.
Piazza del Campidoglio 1
+39 06 0608
Fashion
In business since 1798, Gammarelli is a papal tailor, in particular known for its high-quality socks.
Via di S. Chiara 34
+39 06 6680 1314
Wine shops
Wine shop of natural wines, offers products from small producers outside of the circuit of large retailers.
Via Rialto 25
Offers natural wines from bottle or glass, mainly local producers but also some French and Austrian wines are sold here.
Viale dei Parioli 34
Small winery bistro that specializes in natural wines from Italy and France.
Via Fratelli Bonnet 5
Wine pub with kitchen, with focus on biodynamic and organic wine.
Via del Boschetto 41B
A perfect place to taste organic and biodynamic wines.
Via Ettore Giovenale 62a