GUIDE / SAINT-JEAN-DE-LUZ/ BONJOUR TRISTESSE

There is nothing as indulgent as spending a day at the beach. The thin strip where land meets ocean, with its golden sand and rhythmic sound of washes crashing against the shores, inviting the visitor to relax, sit down and do nothing but to simply be in the moment. Throughout the years, many writers, artists and film-makers have celebrated this particular kind of place, where time seems to stand still. One of the most famous interpretations in cinematic history is Federico Fellini’s slightly surreal “Juliet of the Spirits” (1965), where a visit to the beach evolves into a complicated, colourful drama. The beaches of the musical “South Pacific” (1958) showed a more tropical version, while the famous beach scene in “From Here to Eternity” (1953) represented, in the most dramatic way, the end of the world as we know it.

In the morning, the beach is generally deserted, except for the singular (often elderly) man or woman who goes for a brief swim, in the same way that they probably have done for decades. Seaside routines rarely change. Slowly, as the sun rises, more and more people gather, but in these first morning hours, the beach remains more or less empty. Even the sun seems hesitant, and the morning sunshine is milder and not as intense as later during the day. Also the water is cooler and in the absence of noisy humans, fish dare to come closer to the sea, exploring the shallowest waters to see what treats they might find. By lunch, people have laid out their blankets and towels, set up their parasols and continued reading novels on romance and crime, and finishing their crosswords. Almost like clockwork, every twenty, thirty minutes or so, a few of the beach visitors will get up from their towels and either go down to the water or up to one of the kiosks and buy ice cream, water, a beer or whatever else they are in the mood for. This is repeated the whole afternoon, making it impossible to tell what time it is.

Spending an afternoon at the beach, with all its clusters of people resting in the sun, is a magical experience. The only thing that seems to move is the wind, and then only in the shape of a gentle breeze. Perhaps a group of teenagers will play music in a corner of the beach, and down by the water, small children will be attempting to build sand castles. Those who have planned ahead might have brought sandwiches and snacks, in this way being able to prolong the stay instead of having to reluctantly leave to prepare dinner. But, finally around six or seven pm, more and more people will discreetly begin to gather and pick up their belongings, shake the sand out of their towels and off their bodies, turn their backs to the sea and begin the slow stroll back to the hotel. In the evenings, a few people will still be on the beach, perhaps going for a late – or even midnight – swim, but in general, this is the time when the beach gets its well-deserved rest.

Saint-Jean-de-Luz is more remotely located than similar towns on Côte d’Azur. The French Riviera is easily accessed from many countries, such as Italy, Switzerland and even Germany. In comparison, the Basque Country is relatively isolated. This works to its advantage, as the towns here have been more or less unaffected by the last decades of mass-tourism. Saint-Jean-de-Luz is a rare gem, a seaside town that has kept its allure and distinct personality. Nestled in the heart of a large bay between ocean and mountains, the town has gone through several reincarnations through the years, from being a fishing port to a destination for wellness and vacationers, all the while remaining true to its distinct Basque history and charm.

The historic heart of the town is Place Louis XIV, surrounded by Maison Louis XIV and the Hôtel de Ville. This is where the mains streets, including Rue Gambetta, intersect, and where the narrow Rue de la République leads directly down to la Grande Plage. The name of the square alludes to the historic event that took place here on June 9th, 1660, when Louis XIV, later known as the Sun King and coincidentally also born in the town, married Maria Theresa Infanta of Spain. For more than a month, the sovereign lived here with his large and sumptuous court. Witnesses from the ceremony describe the event as; “Louis XIV, in all the splendor of youth and power, advances, radiant, preceded by Cardinal Mazarin. He is dressed in a suit covered with black lace, and a brocade and gold coat. Then, there is the Infanta Marie-Thérèse, dressed in a dress of silver cloth; over her shoulders, a violet cloak with a very long tail, strewn with fleur-de-lis; on her head a heavy crown of gold..."

It might seem strange for a royal wedding to take place in a small town such as this, but the reason was political. Since 1648, France and Spain had been at war with one another. The year before the wedding, a peace treaty had been signed by the border, in the nearby Pyrenees Mountains. The wedding between the two young royals was to sign the peace deal between the two countries, a manifestation that they now would join forces rather than being enemies. This needed to happen on neutral ground, and Saint-Jean-de-Luz was located right in the middle between Paris and Madrid. Ever since, several buildings and places are named both after the Spanish princess and the French prince. Maison de l’Infante in particular has continued to welcome royal visitors, including the grand-children of Louis XIV and Marie-Thérèse as well as Napoleon III and Empress Eugénie.

To stay

Grand Hôtel Thalasso & Spa

A truly classic hotel, with an impressive wellbeing and spa area, located almost right on the beach. Their restaurant, Aho Fina, is also worth a visit.

43 Boulevard Thiers

645000 Saint-Jean-de-Luz

France

+33 5 59 26 35 36

Hôtel Parc Victoria

Only five minutes from the beach, this hotel, in a stately mansion, offers all the amenities one could wish for.

9 Rue Cape

645000 Saint-Jean-de-Luz

France

+33 5 59 26 78 78

To eat

Le Kaïku