GUIDE / HAWAII / THE FOUR ELEMENTS

FAST GUIDE TO SLOW HAWAII

No man is an island entire of itself; every man is a piece of the continent, a part of the main; if a clod be washed away by the sea, Europeis the less, as well as if a promontory were, aswell as any manner of thy friends or of thine own were; any man’s death diminishes me, because I am involved in mankind. And therefore never send to know for whom the bell tolls; it tolls for thee.

John Donne

Similar to almost all other island paradises, the island group of Hawai’i is geographically isolated from the outside world. The islands are hundreds of miles from nearest mainland. It is in many ways incredible that they have been inhabited for as long as they have. The first people probably arrived already around 1000 AC, after which they lived in isolation for hundreds of years. During this time, they developed their own philosophy of life and culture, interlaced with and based in the exotic natural characteristics of the islands.

Since 1959; Hawai’i is part of the US, and its cultural image has become strongly influenced by American pop culture; 1980s posters of two sloping palm trees on the Kaanapali beach in sunset, Tom Selleck as Magnum PI, Elvis Presley’s Blue Hawai’i and Kuaui operating as the backdrop of the Jurassic Park-films. Without even having visited, many people still have a strong idea of what Hawai’i looks like: White beaches, clear blue sea and verdant greenery. Hula skirts, hula dancing and leis. The clichés are so numerous, as well as consistently reinforced, that they often overshadow the actual place and the real-life experiences that it holds. This is also why there seems to be so many different aspects to Hawai’i: not only the commercial myth, as seen in TV-series and films, nor simply the actual islands of Hawai’i with their particular kind of scent, sounds and a unique colour splendour, but also a third dimension, hidden in plain sight – the ancient, Hawaiian knowledge of how life should be organized, not least in regards to how the material world in many ways is interconnected with the spiritual realm.

This introduction to Hawai’i is divided into four chapters, reflecting the four elements fire, earth, water and air. The reason for this structure is that in Hawai’i, these elements are particularly enhanced. The text is a guide to the culture and spiritual customs of Hawai’i, with an added and more detailed guide of practical information for visitors (specifically for those interested in the four islands of Maui, Kuauai, O’ahu and Big Island) at the end.

FIRE

¨The island group of Hawai’i was born by enormous fire: a crack appeared in the surface of the earth, hundreds of meters below sea level, in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. ¨

Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, Big Island

The island group of Hawai’i was born by enormous fire: a crack appeared in the surface of the earth, hundreds of meters below sea level, in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Hot lava poured out of the planet’s inner core, with such violent force that its effects are still clearly noticeable in the many impressive mountain peaks and deep valleys of the islands. This energy makes the colours more intense, gives food a richer taste while scents are more vibrant. Many are those who have likened this part of the world to an earthly paradise.

The islands that were formed in this volcanic area gradually shifted north due to the movements of the tectonic plate, allowing for the continuous formation of what are now hundreds of islands of varying sizes. The initial volatile eruption of fire has continued ever since that first outburst, creating a chain of islands. The volcanos also helped to capture moisture in the air, in effect bringing rain to the newly formed islands. For thousands of years, this rain has moulded the black lava peaks and transformed them into dramatic mountain ranges. Beneath sea level, coral reefs have successively emerged.

One of the most influential of the Hawaiian gods was Kāne, who appears in the shape of the sun each morning, spreading light over the beaches and hillsides. Kāne provides sunlight but also fresh water, winds and even fertility and procreation. In other words, Kāne is the provider of life itself. He came from Kahiki, the Hawaiians’ ancestreal home, and was first sighted in human form off the coast of Maui. When not appearing as human, he could take the shape of lighting or of a star, but also appearing as other elements, such as the wind. The most famous of all the gods was however the temperamental mother goddess Pele, who created new land by violently pouring hot lava into the sea. Even today, Pele is working on creating new islands: the seamount Lō’ihi is steadily growing from the bottom of the surface and eventually it will become the newest addition to the Hawaiian Islands.

Like most strong forces, Pele has a dual nature – she can be considered both the source of destruction and creation. Still today, worshippers frequently perform nightly rituals in Pele’s honour at the volcanic crater Halema’uma’u of Big Island, where she is said to live. To these believers, Pele is a tangible existence, visible in volcanic eruptions and steam coming out of the ground, but may at times also be seen in human form. If she is wearing white, she is warning you of ill health. If wearing red, this is a signal that the volcano soon will erupt. Her signature scent is sulphur and her colour is red, which traditionally is the colour of sanctity, which also is viewed as a sacred colour throughout Polynesia. This way of viewing natural phenomena as also existing as sentient beings was essential to traditional Hawaiian culture. Deities – of which there were 40 000 individual personalities – could take different forms and shapes, shifting from plants and rocks to animals and human form.

Consumer theorists claim that the two driving forces in our lives are wants and needs. Some elementary things we need to survive, such as food, water and sleep. Besides these biological requirements, we also have social needs, such as being part of a community and having rewarding relationships with other people. In addition, most of us also have the need for some kind of intellectual stimuli, such as learning new skills or absorbing new forms of knowledge. The psychologist Abraham Maslow outlined the hierarchy of these needs in the shape of a pyramid. At the bottom of the triangle, he placed physical needs, but closer to the top, he emphasized intellectual self-realization and transcendence.

Wants are different from needs, potentially also more irrational. We might have an actual, physical need for a jacket that shields us from cold weather, but at the same time, we want it to be of a particular model and brand. We might be hungry, but we desire a particular kind of food. This way, wants and needs are different kinds of driving forces, but often they are so intertwined with each other that they are difficult to tell apart. Because desire is emotionally bound, it is not easy meeting it with rational arguments. Emily Dickinson summarized this succinctly when she stated, ”the heart wants what it wants – or else it does not care.” Desire can operate as a fire, taking over more rational thought, if not being carefully supervised and managed.

A life that is marked by an uncontrolled desire becomes unbalanced. This is why the strive for balance is central to Hawaiian philosophy. Balance must rule among people, animals, birds and plants; between masculine and feminine; between the gods; between small and large; between all of the people that together make up a community. Imbalance has negative effects and can lead to disease and unhappiness. One way this was expressed in Hawai’i was the strictly hierarchical way that society was organized, where everyone knew their position, from birth and onwards. The ruling class was thought to possess enormous spiritual powers, and so blood lines were guarded, but in contrast to common Western beliefs, Hawaiians recognized no devil and no hellfire.

The reason that the strive for balance is so strong in Hawaiian culture is that it is defined by a series of contrasting dualities, often sprung out of elements that are common to the Hawaiian environment such as water and fire, steep mountains and deep valleys, lightness and darkness. According to Hawaiian mythology, Kāne is the sun god while the goddess Hina lives on the moon. Both sides of this duality – fire as well as its opposite – must be expressed for harmony to be obtained.

EARTH

Already upon arrival in Hawai’i, it is evident for most visitors that the islands have an extremely unusual atmosphere. There is a kind of peaceful yet forceful energy, which makes you feel as though you are coming home (even if it is your very first visit). Initially, the energy seems to stem from the land itself, but it is also felt as a presence in the ocean and in the air. Even though it is invisible and without sound, to the ones sensitive enough to notice, it has a distinct vibration and rhythm. This energy is called “mana”, a form of divine power and non-physical energy. The source of mana is all around; in the water, in the earth and in the sky. It is in animals, plants and stones as well as in humans. It is also particularly heightened in certain places, where it is almost a tangible presence. It can be acquired by anyone, but can also be passed to others or placed into objects. The mysterious force of mana originates from the deities, who possess vast quantities of it, but who also share some of it with people, animals, places and things. No part of life is separated from mana. Mana can also leave a mark, similar to how scent can leave a trace. For example, objects can take on the mana of its owner, which is the reason why clothes were never to be shared, even among family and friends.

In ancient Hawai’i, private ownership did not exist as the land belonged to the gods and goddesses. The chiefs were simply the caretakers of the land. As nature and culture were one, mana existed equally in rocks, waterfalls and the ocean waves, as well as in buildings, garments and other manmade objects. The Greek philosopher Pythagoras never visited Hawai’i, but his line of thinking was similar to the Hawaiian understanding when he wrote that, “consciousness sleeps in the stone, dreams in the plant, awakes in the animal and slowly becomes aware of itself in man”. Translated, this means that we are all part of the same energy field – the same life-force of mana – that is the prerequisite for consciousness, but at different levels of development. In the stone, this force is still dormant, while in man it has even reached the potential to allow us to reflect on our existence. From this point of view, we are all part of the same oneness, but it is also clear that there exists a progression of awareness, where the aim appears to be to seek out knowledge and to discover a deeper understanding of life’s purpose.

¨Hawai’i is often likened by both visitors and residents to a kind of intense force field of energy.¨

Different places hold different levels of mana. Hawai’i is often likened by both visitors and residents to a kind of intense force field of energy, which of course is an allusion to the high level of mana in the air, water and earth here. Where there is a concentrated level of mana, many experience peace and wellbeing, which allows for an accentuated development curve. Could this be because Hawai’I, geographically speaking, is a unique place on Earth? Usually, islands are found at tectonic plate boundaries or from subduction zones. Hawai’I, however, is situated in the middle of one of the largest crustal plates on Earth, called the Pacific Plate. Once the islands begun to move, they began to erode. Kauai, the oldest of the main Hawaiian Islands, is approximately five million years old. In several places on Hawai’i, the sand beaches are not yellow or white, but black, often times created through the process of basaltic lava hitting cold ocean water in certain conditions. This kind of sand is very different from other types, as it is sharper, making it difficult for sandy beach organisms to survive. Also, the colour black tends to become extremely hot at low tide, thus killing marine organisms.

Red Dirt Waterfalls, Waimea Canyon State Park, Kauai

Most of Hawai’i is covered in a particular kind of material – young, barren lava flows that often lack soil and thus also vegetation. The red dirt, an earthly matter that many deeply associate with the Hawaiian landscape, is the result of the humidity and rain leaching minerals from the soil, resulting in iron causing red stains on your skin, your clothes, car and even indoor furniture. In a way, it is strange that anything could grow in the grounds of theses volcanic islands, as it is the world’s most isolated centre of population. It is separated from California by the Eastern Pacific Barrier, a 4,000 miles expanse of deep ocean with no shallow water and no islands. However, where the four elements are all present, life will follow.

Makena Beach State Park, Big Beach, Maui

Earth provides solid structures, translated in the human body to concrete matters such as bones, tissues and hair, in this way building the foundation through which the other elements are expressed. On Hawai’i, it is the same: the earth element is what provides structure for everything else that happens here, giving shape and silhouettes to all life on the islands. Usually, earth is considered a feminine element, as earth is also the great, fertile mother that provides for all others. in ancient Greece, it was generally associated with qualities of heaviness and the terrestrial world (as opposed to the celestial). Because earth is such a fundamental element, it is not only connected to matters of life but also of death, giving it almost supernatural qualities, bordering on the occult.

There is a primordial power present in Hawai’i that is possible to tap into, if we only learn the techniques. Simply being present in nature by swimming in the ocean or talking a walk in the forest is an easy way of extracting mana. Nature is full of mana that gives us power, if we only spend time in it. A clear sign that one has received mana is the sense of serenity and calm which spreads through the body after such an experience. This specific type of mana, contained within natural objects, was of great importance not only in everyday life but also for religious and magical rituals.

Once, the islands of Hawai’i were filled with temples and sacred places, each with their own designated purpose: for healing, war, agriculture or rain. The islands also held numerous shrines, but throughout the years and due not least to urban developments, many have been destroyed. The temples that remain still receive offerings. In the introductory partial poem by John Donne, he makes the point that no man is an island. Similar to the islands of Hawai’i, connected through the rocks below the ocean surface, all individuals are interconnected through mana.

WATER

Hawai’i is the name of a group of hundreds of islands, spread over 2 400 square kilometres. Despite this vast area, it only has approximately one million inhabitants, primarily concentrated to one of the eight main islands – Ni’ihau, Kauai, O’ahu, Molokai, Lanai, Kaho’olawe, Maui and Hawai’i – in the southeast part of the island group. To avoid confusion, the latter of the islands is usually called “Big Island”, to emphasize that it is the singular island and not the entire island group that is referred to. Seven of these are inhabited but only six are open to tourists and locals (as Ni’ihau, home to many native Hawaiians, is privately managed).

The islands were uninhabited until 1000 AC, when travellers arrived from the South Pacific. Some researchers claim that already approximately 100 years later, a new wave of migrations from Polynesia (which literally means “many islands”) began. They would travel in double-canoes that could hold up to 60 people, while also transporting food plants and animals such as baby pigs, chickens and dogs. Travels between Hawai’i and Tahiti could have continued in this way for many years. They would navigate for thousands of miles between these islands using the stars in the sky, water currents and other clues provided by nature. In this way, water is what separates Hawai’i from the rest of the world, but it was also through the sea that its first settlers could even reach it. Thus, the ocean holds two opposing symbolic meanings for Hawai’i, as it both operates as a distancing force and as a facilitator for contact and connection.

The settlers brought with them a language and a culture, which would progress undisturbed by outside influence for hundreds of years. The Polynesian societal structure, the foundation for the Hawaiian culture, was based in a strict hierarchy, where people were born into a particular position that they then maintained through life. The idea was that everyone should fill a function needed for society as a whole to function. This was regulated through a societal order called “kapu”, which regulated many different aspects of the population’s behaviour and interactions.

It wasn’t until 1778, when captain James Cook and his expedition arrived, that Hawai’i’s isolation from the outside world was finally broken. Soon, not only the US but also countries in Europe gained knowledge of the tropical paradise. The consequences were devastating, and many Hawaiians died when encountering the newcomers, as they had a completely different kind of immune system. The high death toll led to an influx of immigrant workers to take the place of the lost native workers; in 19851, the first wave of Chinese workers arrived, followed by the Japanese in 1868, the Koreans in 1903 and the Filipinos in 1909. This explains why today Asian Americans account for almost 40 % of the Hawaiian population. Not least were Christian missionaries interested in the island, as they wanted to spread the teachings of Christ. Soon, through intensive lobbying by the missionaries, the old ways of Hawai’i had been forbidden. The islands could however remain independent – complete with its own royal family – until 1898 when it was annexed by the US, and in 1959, Hawai’I was more or less forced to join the federal union. Today, there is a renewed interest in the old customs and ways of seeing man as part of nature (instead of viewing “culture” as the opposite of “nature”, as is common in Western thinking). A renewed resistance to the US, in favour of a stronger independent identity and Hawaiian sovereignty, is steadily building.

¨As on all islands, water defined and regulated not only daily life but influenced also traditions and the Hawaiians sense of identity.¨

As on all islands, water defined and regulated not only daily life but influenced also traditions and the Hawaiians sense of identity. Many Hawaiians believed that they were directly related to sharks. This was not meant in a symbolic way but was considered a common fact. Sharks represented strength, bravery and courage and were thus to be respected and revered. They were both a real threat, existing all around in the deep waters that surrounded the islands, but were also considered family (or at least distant relatives). For this reason, many avoided eating shark meat, as they did not want to risk eating an ancestor.

The god of the sea was Kanaloa, who was also the companion of Kāne. An example of their intimacy was that even though Kanaloa ruled the sea, it was Kāne who had added the salt to the ocean, to keep it healthy. Their names were often linked in chants, and both were associated with fish, essential to the Hawaiian diet. The sea provided an abundance of gifts in the shape of seaweed, molluscs, fish and crustaceans, and systems were in place to evaporate salt on the coasts of the islands. When traveling on the sea, one would pray to Kanaloa, asking for safe passing and protection from the waves. Sea water was also used in rituals, for purification purposes. Kanaloa was also the creator of the tides, as the rise and fall of sea levels were the effects of his breathing.

¨The enormous importance placed on water is evident in the Hawaiian language: water is “wai”, while the word for wealth, abundance and prosperity is “waiwai”: the simple duplication of the word for water.¨

In the Western world, many take daily miracles for granted. We have become so accustomed to the many gifts that we receive, that we often don’t even recognize them as gifts anymore. Ancient Hawai’i was based in a completely opposite philosophy, as people treated more or less everything as a gift from the gods. For the Hawaiians, living on islands, even fresh water had spiritual qualities. It was a gift and an unending source of “ola” (life). It would fall from the sky in the shape of rain, it would come in mysterious ways from the inner core of the earth, and in the shape of rivers and streams, it would flow out in the ocean. The enormous importance placed on water is evident in the Hawaiian language: water is “wai”, while the word for wealth, abundance and prosperity is “waiwai”: the simple duplication of the word for water. Each day, the family altar would be sprayed with fresh water, and it was not uncommon to clean oneself with fresh water several times a day. For drinking and food preparation, water from springs was preferred as this was usually the purest. Fresh water springs on the islands were seen as having been created in the footsteps of Kāne and Kanaloa, from where they had put down their “o’o” (walking sticks). However, there was also fresh water in the ocean, and divers would dive down to the springs, and fill covered gourds with fresh water before returning to the beach.

The Hawaiian way of respecting water is also visible in the saying, “uwe ka lani ola ka honua” – roughly translated to “the heavens cry, the earth lives”. Again, the life-invoking qualities of water is emphasized. Water, in the shape of rain, is a necessity for life. In Hawai’i, water was so intimately associated with new life that fresh water was a common symbol for sexuality. When there was a lack of rain, special temples would be built for prayers, and the Hawaiian language has at least dozens of words to describe and distinguish between different types of rain. Light, misty rain, falling at certain times, was considered a blessing and a positive omen. Rainbows, on the other hand, could be seen as a sign of good luck, but could also be an omen of doom. Natural phenomena were in this way clues to what would happen in the future, thus viewing human life as an integrated part of nature.

AIR

¨Pele shaped the islands through her volcanic force, and the mountain tops had trapped the humidity in the air, thus transforming moisture into rains that gave nourishment to plants.¨

Pele shaped the islands through her volcanic force, and the mountain tops had trapped the humidity in the air, thus transforming moisture into rains that gave nourishment to plants. This allowed insects, birds and plant species to evolve. Many of these were carried here by the wind from the mainland, but developed over time into unique forms, not seen anywhere else in the world. It was this particular interaction of all four elements that shaped Hawai’i, each one playing an essential part in the creation of the wonders of this place. The Hawaiian air is of a particular quality. Arriving in Hawai’i from the American mainland means leaving behind a polluted atmosphere and arriving in a place where air feels and tastes fresher and richer. Even though Hawai’i has a tropical climate, both temperature and humidity tend to be less extreme due to the near-constant trade winds coming from the east.

Originally, Hawaiian was not a written language, and therefore many things were lost in translation. It was an oral culture and so particular emphasis was placed on the act of speech, of forming sounds and manifesting them verbally, before they disappeared into thin air. Spoken words carried great significance, as they were not only a means of communication but also a way of moving mana in a particular direction. Through spoken word, it was possible to manifest a direction for one’s life journey, making every word an important matter. Prayers usually ended with “amama ua noa”, meaning “the prayer has flown”, underlining that the words literally travelled through air, from the mouth of the speaker to the ears of the gods.

Oral cultures have a slightly different view of time, as the shared history is passed from generation to generation in the shape of a story, manifesting the connection through time each time the story is told, but otherwise remaining hidden. Hawaiian is in a sense a very limited language, as it only holds seven consonants and five vowels (together with the glottal stop, represented by an apostrophe between vowels, signifying where there was once a consonant). Even with these constraints, it seems to have an endless and playful abundance of words.

According to Hawaiian tradition, in every human, there resided a sprit called ‘uhane. However, the ‘uhane was not permanently fixed inside the body, but could leave when the host was asleep. These astral travels allowed for journeys in time and space, covering long distances in sort periods of time, and what the ‘uhane saw was then translated by the mind as either dreams or nightmares. The body would wake up on the return of the ‘uhane. This might require some clarification: the Hawaiians did not limit perception to the five senses, but due to their connection with nature, they had grown to trust their intuition and emotion as tools of navigation, together with logic and reason. In order words, their world-view was holistic, and they saw everything and everyone as small parts of the same system.

¨Aloha is both a phrase of welcoming and a way of seeing and approaching the world.¨

The word that most associate with Hawai’i is “aloha”. It is a greeting phrase, and so it is also the first word that visitors hear upon arrival. But it is also so much more than that. Aloha also means love, but in the widest and most inclusionary definition of the word: from the deepest emotional levels to more general expressions of kindness, generosity and tenderness. To great someone with “aloha” is thus not only to recognize someone else’s existence, but to share an invitation to a community. Briefly summarized, the foundation of Hawaiian philosophy and spirituality is kindness and warmth, expressed in a view that is not rooted in the individual’s needs or wants, but rather in the understanding that we are all components of the same entity, of the same oneness. Aloha is both a phrase of welcoming and a way of seeing and approaching the world. Aloha is closely related to the life-force of mana, as it is a manifestation of inclusion, and an emphasis of shared communion.

Maui

To Stay

Maui Eco Retreat

610 Huelo Rd, Haiku

HI 96708

To Eat and Drink

Baya Bowls

741 Waine'e St #1510

Lahaina, HI 96761

Moku Roots

335 Keawe St. #221
Lahaina, HI 96761

Maui Brewing Co

4405 HI-30 Ste 217

Lahaina, HI 96761

To Visit

Hana Highway

It is not about the destination but about the journey. Driving past waterfalls, stopping to visit coves, black lava beaches and spectacular views. Recommended is not to miss stopping at Honokalani Black Sand Beach, in the Waianapanapa State Park.

Makena Beach

A serene beach with pristine water, overlooking the iconic Molokini Crater.

Lahaina is a nice, walkable town with small shops and cafés.

Haleakala National Park

Waianapanapa State Park

Iao Valley State Park

Kuaui

The south side has generally calmer water (for swimming) and the north side has much more dramatic and beautiful scenery.

To Stay

Kauai Cove Cottages

2672 Puuholo Rd, Koloa

HI 96756

O'Luina Hotel

5150 Kikala Rd, Kalaheo

HI 96741

To Eat and Drink

Eat Healthy Kauai

4-369 Kuhio Hwy, Kapaʻa

HI 96746, USA

Bar Acuda

5-5161 Kuhio Hwy, Hanalei

HI 96714, USA

Living foods

2829 Ala Kalanikaumaka St Suite 124

Koloa, HI 96756, USA

Hanalei Bread Company

5-5161 Kuhio Hwy #4

Hanalei, HI 96714

Merriman's Kauai

2829 Ala Kalanikaumaka St

Koloa, HI 96756

Oasis on the Beach

4 820 Kuhio Hwy, Kapaʻa

HI 96746

To Visit

Nā Pali Coast State Wilderness Park

Limahuli Garden and Preserve

Anaina Hou Community Park Market

Hale Halawai’s Hanalei Farmer’s Market

Hanalei

Big Island

To Stay

Holualoa inn

76-5932 Mamalahoa Hwy,

Holualoa, HI 96725

To Eat and Drink

Sweet Cane Cafe

48 Kamana St, Hilo

HI 96720, USA

Volcano Winery

35 Piimauna Dr, Volcano

HI 96785, USA

Big Island Brewhause

64-1066 Mamalahoa Hwy

Waimea, HI 96743, USA

Kona Coffee

74-5588 Palani Rd

Kailua-Kona, HI 96740

Pueo's Osteria

68-1845 Waikoloa Rd, Waikoloa Village

HI 96738

To Visit

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

The Hawaiian macadamia nut is grown and produced on Big Island by Mauna Loa.

Muana Key Summit

Punaluʻu Black Sand Beach

Papakōlea Green Sand Beach

Akaka Falls State Park

Beach 69

Ka‘ū Desert

Big Island Bees

Island Naturals Market & Deli

Hilo Farmers Market

Hapuna beach

O’ahu

To Stay

Air Bnb

To Eat and Drink

Kahumana Food Hub & Organic Farms

86-660 Lualualei Homestead Rd

Waianae, HI 96792

Mud Hen Water

3452 Waialae Ave

Honolulu HI 96816

Moku Kitchen

660 Ala Moana Blvd

Honolulu, HI 96813

Kahuku Farms

56-800 Kamehameha Hwy

Kahuku, HI 96731

To Visit

Shangri La

4055 Pāpū Cir

Honolulu, HI 96816

Doris Duke’s Honolulu home has been transformed into a museum of Islamic art and design. A spectacular villa in one of the most beautiful settings of the island.

The Liljestrand House,

3300 Tantalus Dr

Honolulu, HI 96822

Today owned by a foundation and open to the public, was designed by Vladimir Ossipoff and widely considered to be one of this best works.

Ka'ena Point State Park

Hanauma Bay

Koʻolau Mountain Range

Laie Point

Diamond Head

Honolulu Museum of Art(Homa)