GUIDE / STOCKHOLM / RAY OF LIGHT
The Swedish playwriter Lars Norén once noted that Stockholm, on a superficial level, in many ways can be considered a more or less average city, similar to many others in northern Europe. Norén suggested however that Stockholm had something else, an intangible quality that went beyond what is visible at a first glance. What sets Stockholm apart is something ephemeral: the city has a unique geographical position, giving it an extreme relationship defined by the continuously shifting contrasts between sunlight and darkness. What Stockholm offers is a strange and unusual play between light and dark, almost impossible to experience anywhere else but here.
Oscarskyrkan
Norra Tornen
Norra Tornen
The first time I read Norén’s thoughts on the particular quality of Stockholm light, it was early spring, in-between seasons, and I had difficulty understanding what he was referring to. Living only a few blocks from Norén in Vasastan, I would go for daily walks, trying to see the city through his perspective but without succeeding. However, only a few months later, an evening in early May, I had been to the brasserie Riche in downtown Stockholm. Around 8 pm, I walked out of the restaurant, only to find myself immersed in a shimmering, almost otherworldly light, pulsating through the air, filling it with a kind of electric energy. The sky was a playful combination of blue, pink and purple, continuously moving as I stood still on the sidewalk and watched. I remember not fully believing what I saw, while people all around me continued with their everyday activities, as though we were not all currently witnesses to one of the world’s greatest natural wonders.
¨Stockholm is not a city simply made up of streets, buildings and people, but a site defined by its extreme relationship with different kinds of sunlight.¨
Hötorgsskraporna
At that moment, I understood exactly what Norén had meant: Stockholm is not a city simply made up of streets, buildings and people, but a site defined by its extreme relationship with different kinds of sunlight. During winter, it is so dark that temporary visitors regularly remark on how eerie the constant lack of daylight is, and how strange it must be to live in what appears to be an eternal night. In the summertime, the experience is the complete opposite: never-ending white nights and parties that seem to go on forever, while people go back and forth between the city and its archipelago, blurring the lines between night and day, work and play. People not used to these kinds of extreme changes in light are often flabbergasted when they first experience it, almost not believing this almost surreal experience. This is the trick of Stockholm – a seemingly mundane city but with a surreal relationship to sunlight, constantly changing throughout the year and times of day.
Norr Mälarstrand
Strandvägen
DAWN
Dawn in Stockholm can be radically different depending on season. In winter, there is no real difference between night, dawn or even early afternoon – the city is embedded in what seems to be a sea of constant darkness. This makes waking up difficult and mornings tend to become longer, lazier and more stretched out, at times continuing as long as until noon, when one starts preparing to go back to bed. There is a softness to the darkness, making you prefer to stay at home, in bed, with a book as a window to other worlds where the sun isn’t a stranger. The coldness of the dark makes most people avoid being outside when not necessary, and so the city is quiet, in many areas even deserted. However, in the many forests and nature reserves around the city, people will gather for long walks in the snow and across ice-covered lakes.
Riddarholmskyrkan
¨The Stockholm summer is often marked by this continuous presence of sunshine, regardless of what time of day it is.¨
Konserthuset
To wake up at dawn in the summer is like waking up in the middle of the day. The sky is blue and the sun has been up for hours, the air gentle and warm. Almost regardless of how early you set the alarm, the sun will already be up. The Stockholm summer is often marked by this continuous presence of sunshine, regardless of what time of day it is. It makes for a very productive approach to whatever you focus your energy on, regardless of whether it’s work or pleasure. Because the sun never sets, it also never rises, creating a peculiar atmosphere. It is almost as if the natural order of things has been temporarily paused, and the concept of darkness completely abolished. People come from all over the world to experience the strangeness of the Swedish summer lights, marked by the ancient custom of Midsummer, when on the longest day of the year, people celebrate the light and the abundance of nature’s gifts, dancing and singing traditional songs, often leaving the city to spend several days in the countryside as part of this annual celebration.
Lärkstaden
¨The church is one of the most beautiful in Stockholm, and is considered one of the best examples of the combination of the Art Noveau and National Romantic styles of the early 20th century.¨
Engelbrektskyrkan
If visiting Stockholm during winter, the best way to enjoy the morning is by having breakfast at the conservatory of boutique hotel Ett hem. Outside the building’s glass walls, fires will be burning on the court yard, and the smallness of the hotel (it has only twelve rooms) means that it never feels crowded. When not fully booked, the breakfast is also open to a few non-guests, but this is only possible to book one day in advance. Nearby, Engelbrektskyrkan, designed by architect Lars Israel Wahlman, sits on top of a small hill, overlooking the residential area Lärkstaden. The church is one of the most beautiful in Stockholm, and is considered one of the best examples of the combination of the Art Noveau and National Romantic styles of the early 20th century.
Strandvägen
In the summertime, breakfast at either Hotel Diplomat or Grand Hôtel is preferred. Both hotels overlook the water and the Stockholm skyline. Just a few meters from Diplomat lies the shop Svenskt tenn. Founded in 1924 by Estrid Ericson, it still offers all different kinds of things she found beautiful and with the potential to enhance the aesthetics of the everyday. Three years later, in 1927, the shop moved to Strandvägen 5, where it is still based. In 1934, she was joined by designer and architect Josef Frank, who had fled to Sweden via Denmark from Austria. Together, they created a bourgeoise universe that combined their joint sense of taste with the modern need for comfort. Today, the shop is owned by a foundation, which in turn supports endeavours in science, education and culture. Svenskt tenn offers everything you might need in a home, from the consultancy on the interiors of your entire home to a selection of the smallest spoon or napkin. As it is very popular destination, it is best to visit early in the day and to avoid weekends.
Hotel Diplomat
Strandvägen
DAY
Skogskrematoriet, Skogskyrkogården
Traveling south via the metro system, it doesn’t take long before one reaches Skogskyrkogården (which is also the name of the metro stop). In this forest cemetery, inaugurated in 1940, most of the graves are placed among trees in a deep forest, in this way interlacing human existence with the organic shapes of nature. Since 1994, it is classified as a world heritage by Unesco. Specifically, it was the way in which architects Gunnar Asplund and Sigurd Lewerentz created a completely new kind of burial ground, which later came to inspire other resting grounds around the world, that awarded the cemetery this status. However, also the architecture itself has been defined an important world contribution, and the entire site is today considered to be one of the world’s most significant modern architectural accomplishments. Between 1935 and 1940, Gunnar Asplund designed Skogskrematoriet, which is the largest compound of the area. It consists of three chapels – of the Faith, of Hope and of the Holy Cross – as well as a crematorium and the large open hall of monuments.
Almhöjden, Skogskyrkogården
Skogskrematoriet, Skogskyrkogården
For those wanting to learn more about Gunnar Asplund, a visit to the City Library is recommended. Not necessarily to read books on his work, but to experience the building itself, which he designed. It first opened its door to the public in 1928. Inspired not only by his travels in the US but also to Paris, most notably the visit to Barrière de Saint-Martin (also known as La rotonde de la Villette), an 18th century building with a construction remarkably similar to the library he would design in Stockholm. However, Asplund modified and updated the Parisian aesthetics, and in the process turned the new library building into one of the premiere examples of Swedish Grace, the style that dominated Swedish architecture and design in the 1920s.
Stadsbiblioteket
The residential area Gärdet must be understood in relation to the adjoining neighbourhood Östermalm, planned approximately 50 years before, when the ideal was to conquer nature by defying the natural landscape. In contrast, the light and modish buildings of Gärdet – their very appearance a signal that modernity was rapidly approaching and that a completely new ideology of living was being introduced – where carefully placed in ways that would have them appear to be in dialogue with nature, rather than being in opposition to it. This is also why the ground at Gärdet isn’t flat but instead slanted like an enormous, wide staircase. The natural slope was kept as it was, out of respect for the already existing shapes that nature had planned. The large boulevard Valhallavägen iss at the bottom of the steps, while parts of the grey mountain rocks underneath the neighbourhood have been kept, clearly visible in-between some of the houses. Gardiststigen leads to the gently curved Rindögatan, which connects with Furusundsgatan. This is also where Josef Frank and his wife chose to live, after having fled the Nazis, which is what the sculpture of two chairs – Josef Frank’s “Model 2025”, lightly angled towards one another – in sand-cast bronze, is a reminder of.
Gärdet
Askrikegatan, Gärdet
Gärdet
Gärdet
Rindögatan, Gärdet
Yet another option for those wanting to visit Stockholm beyond its city centre is Djurgården, a favourite for long weekend walks. The island is easily accessible, either by tram or simply by walking along the waterfront of Strandvägen. It is home to a number of museums, the latest addition being the annex that belongs to art gallery Liljevalchs, simply named Liljevalchs +. The original gallery is a traditional, early 20th century building, inspired by contemporary German ideals of how art institutions should appear, but adapted to fit with the then emerging style Swedish Grace. The addition, completed in 2021, stands in stark contrast to the original – made in grey concrete, it looks closed off and uninviting from the outside, save for the many small circular windows (in total 6860) designed by glass artist Ingegerd Råman. Inside, however, the large sky windows – 170 square meters of glass ceiling – allow for a surprising cascade of light to fill the large exhibition rooms.
Liljevalchs, Djurgården
Liljevalchs, Djurgården
Djurgårdsbrunnsbron
Nordiska museet, Djurgården
Djurgårdsbrunnskanalen
Continuing farther out on the island, there are two former private homes turned into art museums: Thielska Galleriet and Prins Eugen’s Waldemarsudde. Thielska Galleriet was initially commissioned by the industry magnate and art collector Ernest Thiel. He lived here with his family, and the mansion initially functioned as an important hub for prominent artists. After only a few years, Thiel faced financial difficulties and had to sell his home, including the art collection and all the inventories, to the Swedish state. Save its collection of Edvard Munch and Eugène Jansson paintings, the museum is most famous for Nietzsche’s death mask, which is on display in a small tower room at the top of the villa. A short walk from Thielska is the former private home of Prince Eugen, artist and son of king Oscar II and queen Sofia of Nassau. The villa was designed by Ferdinand Boberg, who also planned Thielska, as well as a number of other prominent buildings in Stockholm during this time.
L’ombre, Auguste Rodin, Thielska Galleriet
Bågskytten, Carl Milles, Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde
Waldemarsudde is situated by the water, its terraced garden filled with sculptures by some of the prince’s personal friends, among them Auguste Rodin, whose Le penseur has been strategically placed in the centre of the garden. Inside, the ground floor is preserved almost completely as it was when the prince lived here. Note the two busts in the living room: one of king Oscar II, one of author and playwriter August Strindberg. Strindberg and the king did not agree during their lifetime, and so the prince made a point of placing them opposite one another, so that they would be spending eternity having to look at each other. Waldemarsudde is generally considered to be one of Sweden’s most beautiful art museums, and its exhibitions frequently win awards, but it is equally appreciated for its organically styled flower arrangements, made from flowers growing in the large garden around the mansion.
Konserthuset
Konserthuset
The Four Elements, Alexander Calder, Moderna Museet
Nationalmuseum
Nationalmuseum
DUSK
The sunset in Stockholm can be extraordinary, its intense rays changing the otherwise subdued city into an intense scenery marked by extreme colours and emotions. The spectacle can appear suddenly – one minute the sky is a clear shade of blue, the next it is a firework of shapes and colours. At times, the sunset might be intense while at others, it is a subtle variation of pastels. On rare occurrences during wintertime, it is possible to see the Northern lights in Stockholm – strange, illuminated shapes moving slowly across the night sky.
In the middle of the summer, there is no actual difference between day and night, only a slight drop in temperature and the light touch of dew when night turns to morning. Few hours are spent indoors, as people prefer to live their lives as much as they can in the outdoor, on the many restaurant terraces of the city or in the archipelago. The winter offers the complete opposite experience. Darkness encompasses everything. Only for a few hours, In the middle of the day, the sky might be blue and the sun possibly shining. The pace is different during winter; it is a time for reflection and introspection, for sitting by warm fireplaces and hosting candlelit dinners.
KTH - Kungliga Tekniska Högskolan
KTH - Kungliga Tekniska Högskolan
KTH - Kungliga Tekniska Högskolan
With the exception of Svenskt tenn and perhaps a few antique shops in Östermalm district, Stockholm is not a city for shopping. Rather, it offers a different kind of experience, linked to excursions that lead you out of the city centre, to places slightly hidden (but still easily accessible). Millesgården, situated on an island only minutes awa from central Stockholm, is named after the famous sculpture Carl Milles, who lived here with his wife Olga. They acquired the land in 1906, and two years later, the villa was completed. A few decades later, they bought the neighbouring plots and could thus expand the terraced sculpture garden into the large, labyrinth-like experience it is today, filled with hidden nooks and large art works. In 1936, it was donated as a gift to the Swedish people.
Antiksamlingen, Millesgården
Övre terassen, Millesgården
Nedre terassen, Millesgården
City Hall
City Hall
Stockholms ström
For dinner, Operabaren is considered the most classic institution. Situated in the opera-house, built in the same spot where the old opera-house once was and where king Gustav III was shot in 1792, during a masquerade ball. Having a late dinner at Operabaren is to travel several decades back in time. The original décor is still intact, and the food is served according to Swedish century-old culinary traditions, often by staff who has been working here for decades. For those looking for something more contemporary, the rooftop bar Le Hibou, part of Bank Hotel, has double terraces with a view that reaches many miles.
T-Centralen Metro station
¨Ever since the 1950s, many of the metro stations have incorporated works of art by prominent Swedish artists and designers, who would collaborate closely with the architects in order to integrate the art into the underground spaces.¨
Rådhuset Metro Station
Skarpnäck Metro Station
Rådhuset Metro Station
Below ground, there is another part of the city, namely the Stockholm metro system, often referred to as the world’s largest art exhibition. Ever since the 1950s, many of the metro stations have incorporated works of art by prominent Swedish artists and designers, who would collaborate closely with the architects in order to integrate the art into the underground spaces. Traveling in the metro is thus not just a means of going from one place to another, but to discover an important part of the Swedish cultural legacy. The art also has a pedagogical aspect, as after a while one doesn’t need to read the signs – it is enough merely looking at the art to know which station the train has stopped at.
Kristallvertikalaccent, Sergels Torg
Hötorgsskraporna
Berwaldhallen
NIGHT
During Swedish winters, light is replaced with dark, and instead of sounds there is mostly silence. The darkness transforms the city and turns the familiar into something foreign. Illuminated windows, street-lights and neon signs make visible a completely different landscape than the one we know in summer. In the darkness, the city appears dramatic and mysterious. For many people, darkness is a place of insecurity, even fear. What hides in the shadows and who might be lingering out of sight? Not being able to see is to not be in control, to have to trust the unknown and one’s primal instinct. In the summertime, it is the opposite, as nightly festivities never seem to end. It is not uncommon to see groups of young people spontaneously going for a swim in the middle of the city, taking a temporary break from the party by cooling down in the blue waters of Riddarfjärden.
¨Stockholm is a city made for walking, as the central parts are made up by fourteen different islands, interconnected with one another by a series of bridges.¨
In the 19th century, the flaneur came into existence. He was a new kind of persona, born out of the circumstances that marked this particular moment and place in time. The flaneur enjoyed walking aimlessly in the large cities that were being constructed all around the world, and one of his main ambitions was to look at and be seen by the strangers that he passed on the street. To the flaneur, the city was a playground for social strategizing and aspirational networking, and thus it was essential to (at all times) appear elegant and well-dressed. In many ways, he lived in the intersection of urbanization, industrialization and the emerging modern fashion system, built on the desire to reinvent oneself through a fashionable appearance. Stockholm is a city made for walking, as the central parts are made up by fourteen different islands, interconnected with one another by a series of bridges. Over 30 % of the city consists of waterways, in this way often making leisurely strolls take place where the city meets the sea.
Södermalm
In the darkness of the Stockholm winter nights, it is particularly beautiful to walk along the water. Between the islands that the city is built on, water flows in rapid streams. The many windows of the royal castle often catch the shifting reflections of the dark water. Along Norr Mälarstrand in the area of Kungsholmen, a water promenade was designed already in 1941, in the shape of a narrow park that follows alongside Riddarfjärden. Designed by Holger Blom and Erik Glemme, it is a winding network of paths, with many small bridges, playgrounds and groves of alder, willow, poplar and birch trees. In the summer, this is one of the most popular spots of the city, but in the dark winter evenings, the park is virtually abandoned.
Norr Mälarstrand
Gröna Lund, Djurgården
Brunkebergstunneln
To stay
Boutique hotel with only twelve rooms, situated in a residential area a short walk from the city.
Sköldungagatan 2
114 27 Stockholm
Small, charming hotel on Södermalm with its many restaurants and bars.
Mariagränd 3
11646 Stockholm
One of the most classic hotels in Stockholm, still family-owned.
Strandvägen 7 C
114 56 Stockholm
With a secluded yet central location, on an island in the middle of Stockholm.
Gröna gången 1
111 49 Stockholm
To Eat and drink
Traditional food served in well-preserved art nouveau-interiors.
Jakobs torg 12
111 52 Stockholm
Rooftop bar at Bank Hotel with views of the city.
Arsenalsgatan 6
111 47 Stockholm
Organic food served at the museum of photography.
Stadsgårdshamnen 22
116 45 Stockholm
Serving both lunch and dinner, famous not only for their excellent food but also for offering Swedish wines.
Djurgårdsstrand 9
115 21 Stockholm
Situated in the Sparrow Hotel, this bistro is run by Mathias Dahlgren and has an impressive offering of natural wines.
Birger Jarlsgatan 26A
114 34 Stockholm
Bar with natural wines in the Östermalm area.
Brahegatan 4
114 37 Stockholm
A favourite among many locals, especially among those in the creative field.
Åsögatan 171
116 32 Stockholm
Small bar with good selection of natural wines.
Tegnérgatan 4
113 58 Stockholm
Italian bar that specializes in natural wines.
Sveavägen 84-86
113 59 Stockholm
Luxury vegetarian restaurant at Grand Hotel.
Södra Blasieholmshamnen 6
103 27 Stockholm
The more informal restaurant at Grand Hotel.
Södra Blasieholmshamnen 6
111 48 Stockholm
Beautiful, organic café on the island of Djurgården.
Rosendalsvägen 38
115 21 Stockholm
Restaurant close to Ulriksdals Castle, a few minutes outside of Stockholm.
Ulriksdals Värdshus
170 79 Solna
Fine but informal dining with focus on sustainalbity.
Roslagsgatan 43
113 54 Stockholm
A fashionable pizzeria in Vasastan.
Roslagsgatan 6
113 55 Stockholm
Artist Carsten Höller presents his brutalist and minimalist approach to food.
Regeringsgatan 71
111 56 Stockholm
One of the most ambitions fine dining restaurants in Stockholm, where even the building has been designed to be aligned with the concept.
Biskopsvägen 9
115 21 Stockholm
Traditional Swedish cuisine.
Dalagatan 50
113 24 Stockholm
One of the oldest and most classic of Stockholm’s restaurants.
Mäster Samuelsgatan 4
111 44 Stockholm
Restaurang Konstnärsbaren (KB)
Restaurant and bar with close affiliations with the art world.
Smålandsgatan 7
111 46 Stockholm
Museums and Art
Elegant art centre with popular exhibitions.
Djurgårdsvägen 60
115 21 Stockholm
Fomer home of Carl and Olga Milles, now a museum (with excellent restaurant).
Herserudsvägen 32
181 50 Lidingö
Former home of Prince Eugen, today an art museum.
Prins Eugens Väg 6
115 21 Stockholm
But by Ferdinand Boberg for Erenst Thiel, today an art museum.
Sjötullsbacken 8
115 25 Stockholm
Stockholm’s museum of modern art.
Exercisplan 4
111 49 Stockholm
Sweden’s national museum of art.
Södra Blasieholmshamnen 2
111 48 Stockholm
One of the best new art galleries in town.
Västra Trädgårdsgatan 9
111 53 Stockholm
Art museum in the southern archipelago.
Artipelagstigen 1
134 40 Gustavsberg
Previously a private palace, today a museum.
Hamngatan 4
111 47 Stockholm
A museum of one of the world’s most famous ships.
Galärvarvsvägen 14
115 21 Stockholm
Linnégatan 31
114 47 Stockholm
To shop
Established in 1924 as a shop of interiors, today a Swedish cultural institution.
Strandvägen 5
114 51 Stockholm
Traditional leather goods of the highest quality.
Sibyllegatan 7
114 51 Stockholm
Swedish perfume house, founded by Ben Gorham.
Mäster Samuelsgatan 6
111 44 Stockholm
Swedish craft.
Norrlandsgatan 20
111 43 Stockholm
The finest Swedish linen.
Sveavägen 104
113 50 Stockholm
Sleek and minimalist interiors, a lot of Swedish design.
Sibyllegatan 31
114 42 Stockholm
Curated vintage interiors.
Sibyllegatan 39
114 42 Stockholm
Expert on Scandinavian mid century modern-interiors.
Sibyllegatan 6
114 42 Stockholm
Locally proceeded chocolate.
Erik Dahlbergsgatan 25
115 32 Stockholm
For a stroll
Beautiful, small park along the water.
Cemetery south of the city, classified as a UNESCO world heritage.