GUIDE / MALLORCA / THE SLOWER SIDE
Between 1993 and 2018, the planes going to and from Palma airport emitted 93 million tonnes of CO₂. Excluding the Covid 19-pandemic, almost all airports in Spain had a constant increase in number of passengers, reaching 275 million recorded travellers in 2019, which is an increase of 87 million passengers in just ten years. Due to environmental concerns, the Balearic Islands have decided to limit the number of cruise ships arriving in the port of Palma to three per day (a number that to many still sounds excessive).
The problem with mass-tourism is not only ecological but also social, as tourism is a lucrative industry that many are dependent on, while it also affects the quality of life for many locals negatively. This can lead to tensions and conflicts in popular neighbourhoods, as some are bothered by the incessant flow of strangers that others make their living from. Some restaurants and bars are only open during the tourist season between April and October, while local stores are replaced with souvenirs and offerings adjusted to the typical tourist lifestyle. The brief visits by tourists disrupt the everyday life of the locals, impacting how life is organized even long after the visitors have gone back home.
Santuari de Lluc
¨Mallorca has become a symbol of everything that is problematic with mass-tourism and travelling.¨
Santuari de Lluc
Mallorca has become a symbol of everything that is problematic with mass-tourism and travelling. In 1955, the first charter travel from Stockholm to Palma was arranged. The trip lasted 16 days and became the start of democratization of travelling. For centuries, traveling for leisure had been an exclusive activity, reserved for the wealthy elite. In the middle of the 20th century, consumer culture changed radically across the world. Fashionable clothes were now mass-produced and democratically priced, in Europe vacation time had become regulated by law and international travel now became achievable even for the working class. In theory, this development was a sign of social progress: more people had access to the luxuries of the world and could enjoy what previously had been unattainable. In practice, the democratization of fashion and travel was quickly destroying the world. The climate was changing and previously unspoiled areas were now commercialized to accommodate the ever-increasing flow of tourists. Islands are particularly vulnerable to this kind of pressure, as water is generally scarce and the ecosystem easily altered.
Sa Calobra Road
¨Life is meant to be lived and to be enjoyed. To travel is to explore and to learn, to find oneself and become educated about the lives of others.¨
What to do to solve the problem? Life is meant to be lived and to be enjoyed. To travel is to explore and to learn, to find oneself and become educated about the lives of others. Traveling also offers a respite from the monotony of the everyday. It is a fact that travel, similar to fashion, can never be completely sustainable. To travel is to use energy and resources, it is to take up space in someone else’s hometown or region. To become aware of the problem is a first step, to learn about the effects of individual choices is the next. More than 68% of travellers state that it is important that their trip benefits the local community, and they also want to know that they money they spend go to local communities rather than multinational corporations and chains. Three quarters of travellers are now looking for authentic experiences, representative of the local culture.
In the outskirts of Palma, the Fundació Pilar I Joan Miró is a cultural centre based around Miró’s art studio, designed by architect Josep Lluis Sert in 1956. The purpose of the centre is to promote knowledge and to create social links, both at a local and international level, focusing on subjects associated with Joan Miró’s work.
Fundació Miró Mallorca
Fundació Miró Mallorca
¨On Mallorca, there are many beautiful, small towns off the beaten track. ¨
On Mallorca, there are many beautiful, small towns off the beaten track. The inlands of the islands are still to a large degree unexploited. In contrast to the town Alcudia and its surrounding area in the north, the west coast has kept its traditional scale of small houses in quaint villages. Voted one of the most beautiful towns in Spain, Fornalutx is far from sandy beaches and turquoise water, which could be the reason it has been able to keep its traditional charm and local cuisine, often made from organically sourced ingredients. In the middle of the town is the small hotel Can Verdera, situated in an ancient building surrounded by tranquil gardens and decorated with art by mainly Mediterranean artists. Every Saturday before noon there is a local market in town. To visit Fornalutx is to catch a glimpse of old Mallorca in its most refined version.
Fornalutx
Fornalutx
Another place to visit is Deià. It has been a favourite among artists and other creative minds since the 1950s, drawn here by the light and the beautiful setting, which has awarded Deià World Heritage Status for the ways in which nature, culture and local traditions merge. The draining system (still in use today) was installed during Arab rule in the 8th century and gave the village its name, stemming from “ad daia”, meaning hamlet. In 1887, the Austrian Archduke Lluis Salvador fell in love with the area and bought as much land around Deià and nearby Valldemossa as possible, to prevent the felling of trees and as a way to preserve the landscape. The local shop Es Forn offers fresh, local produce while the Michelin-starred Es Racó d’Es Teix is an option for those seeking fine dining. The town has several charming restaurants and is a nice, laid-back place to stay a few days or even a week.
Deià
Deià
Deià
Close to Deià is the town of Sóller, situated in a valley of orange groves (which is also how the town became wealthy) and famous for its antique train, still transporting visitors between the town and the nearby coast. Sóller is also home to the art museum Can Prunera and the Church of Saint Bartholomew, which can be recognized from anywhere in the valley. The original church was built in the 16th century. In 1904, Joan Rubió, a disciple of Antoni Gaudí, was invited to renovate the building, mixing the baroque elements and Gothic interior with an unsual, modernist façade. It is actually possible to walk between Sóller and Fornalutx, by following a series of pathways and the hamlet of Binibassi.
Soller
Soller
Continuing north from Soller, Sa Calobra is one of the world’s most scenic roads. It is 13 kilomtres long and ends when the road meets the sea. Built in 1932 and designed by engineer Antonio Paretti, it winds around several mountain edges, a masterpiece of twists and turns. To reduce the amount of excavation, the architect drew inspiration to come up with the idea of how make the loops in the road. It was built manually, without any machines and was deliberately designed to avoid tunnels. Reaching the beach at the end of the road takes approximately 25 minutes, but the reward is turquoise sea and stunning views of the cliffs. Paretti also designed another, similarly breath-taking route on Mallorca, namely the road to Cap de Formentor lighthouse. Driving here after dark is an eerie experience, but worth it in order to catch the sunset from one of the best places on the island.
Sa Calobra Road
Sa Calobra Road
Sa Calobra Road
Sa Calobra
Sa Calobra
Sa Calobra
In the area surrounding Sa Calobra, part of the massif Serra de Tramuntana, the mountains are the highest and the cliffs the steepest on all of Mallorca. Situated here are two water reservoirs, of which Cúber is the most scenic. Around this lake, it is possible to go for long walks along the water, with sheep roaming freely in the bushes and among the trees.
Cúber
Cúber
Cúber
Mallorca produces many excellent wines, but only two that are produced biodynamically (which is even more stringent than organic farming). Herbicides and pesticides are banned. The winery Mesquida Mara has been running for approximately fifteen years, taking over production with soil that was almost dead and without nutrients. Gradually, life has returned to this place and today they produce seven different wines. The other biodynamic winery is Can Felly has been in operation since 2010 and uses mainly locally sourced grapes. Initially, the founder Carlos Feliu ran a hotel, and the vines more or less decorative, and the grapes sold as they were, but one day, he decided to start producing wine and today Can Feliu offers the possibility for guests to stay the night in the middle of an active vineyard. Their “Binerbo” is made from 60% Cabarnet and 40% Callet, while their Alé de Merlot is made from 100% Merlot grapes.
Cap de Formentor Lighthouse
Cap de Formentor
Cap de Formentor
¨When you visit Mallorca, make your visit longer, enjoy local food and wine and stay at locally owned hotels.¨
Mallorca also provides ample opportunities to relax and enjoy nature. The sea is all around, the sun shines almost every day, the air is fresh and the mountains dramatic, both from afar and to visit. When you visit Mallorca, make your visit longer, enjoy local food and wine and stay at locally owned hotels. Don’t go back to often, but enjoy the memories of the sea and the sunshine, consider them treasures that are to last a lifetime in your mind.
To Stay
Organic vineyard also operating as a hotel, complete with an outdoor swimming pool.
Camí de sa Serra, Km 1,2, 07260
Porreres, Balearic Islands
Hostel with few amenities, but situated on mountain with an almost metaphysical atmosphere.
Puig de Randa, S/N, 07629 Randa,
Mallorca, Balearic Islands
With a secluded location, on a hill above the Binibona Valley, this hotel offers its guests complete tranquility.
Camí de Binibona, 07314 Binibona
Illes Balears
Situated at the foothills of the Serra Tramontana in the Soller valley, this hotel offers a calm and peaceful place, to get away from the outside world.
Carrer des Toros, 1, 07109 Fornalutx
Illes Balears
Ca's Xorc Luxury Retreat & Restaurant
A historic Majorcan old farmhouse, turned into an agricultural, luxury hotel.
Ctra. Deyà, Km. 56, 1, 07100
Sóller, Illes Balears
In the Serra de Tramuntana mountains lies this 17th century estate with a large, heated spring-water pool.
Carretera Valldemossa-Deiá, s/n, 07179
Deià, Balearic Islands
Hotel D´interior Ca Mado Paula
A few steps from the beach, set in a stately 19th century mansion, with a garden and terrace overlooking the bay of Banyalbufar.
Carrer Constitució, 11, 07191
Banyalbufar, Illes Balears
To See
The museum’s collection includes artworks by artists such as Joan Miró, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, Paul Klee and Fernand Léger.
Carrer de sa Lluna, 86, 90, 07100
Sóller, Illes Balears
One of the most interesting and famous buildings in Sóller, situated by the main square.
Plaça de sa Constitució, 1, 07100 Sóller
Illes Balears
Dedicated to the life and work of Joan Miró.
C/ de Saridakis, 29, 07015
Palma, Illes Balears
An old monastery, as well as one of the most spiritual places on Mallorca.
Plaça dels Pelegrins, 1, 07315 Lluc
Balearic Islands
Nice place to go for a swim on a warm day.
One of the world’s most iconic and beautiful serpentine roads.
To Eat and Drink
Modern Southeast Asia cuisine, served in one of the most beautiful villages of Mallorca. Two outside terraces.
Carrer Arxiduc Luís Salvador, 22, 07179
Deià, Illes Balears
With a terrace facing the Serra de Tramuntana, this family restaurant offers an intimate setting with a lovely view.
Carrer de Sa, Carrer Viña Vieja, 6, 07179
Deià, Illes Balears
On-site organic orchard, their own botanic garden and vegetables picked daily, the team of Mirabona ensures that only local ingredients of great quality are being used. Dishes prepared with herbs of the season.
Agroturisme Ca'n Beneït,
Camí de Binibona, 07314 Selva
Illes Balears