Lohi Telegram / 48 Hours in Padua

The first sign that Padova is not a a big tourist destination came already when we were looking for a nice place to stay. I read all the travel guides I could find, created by glossy international magazines and written by local enthusiasts, but none of the places they recommended looked like a place where I would like to stay.

When I began searching for hotels myself, I realized that the guides were correct; in Padua there’s no old-fashion Grand Hotel, no charming inn, no chic B&B. 

Eventually, we ended up staying in a random (and perfectly fine) small hotel, chosen because it was cheap (this was easy as there are no expensive hotels here) and close to Uva, a restaurant I was very eager to try.

Our first impression wasn’t the best. We’ve been to Padua before but only in passing, changing trains on our way somewhere else, and so unfortunately we were already familiar with the depressing area around the central station. This time, we came by car and drove through industrial areas that seemed to go on forever. 

The roads were in such bad condition I was afraid the car would break, and we passed blocks of dilapidated, abandoned houses. Nothing looked like the romantic university town I had seen photos of, said to be one of the most beautiful places in northern Italy. 

But once we’d parked the car, we realized that there are two Paduas, the old town in the city centre and the one surrounding it. It’s in the centre you will want to be.

Why do some cities turn into tourist attractions and others don't? In Padua's case, the geographical location, 40 kilometres from Venice, is probably a clue to why so many people chose to not come here. 

Venice is known for its uniqueness, and every time I go there, I have the experience of stepping out of reality and into something else, difficult to put into words. It’s so famous and mythical that it’s not logical that it should even exist. it’s like I don’t believe my eyes, as though my mind must be making it up. Venice is larger than life and so it should be impossible to go there. 

And yet, there she is, overshadowing all neighbouring towns.

But is geography the only reason Padua is not more visited? 

I asked Tomas why a stroll here is not as claustrophobic as walking down a street in Florence, and he said that it’s because Padua is not as beautiful. 

But how is beauty measured? 

Padua has a distinctive charm; already by the end of the first century BC, itwas one of the wealthiest in Italy, and this millennia-old pride is sensed when walking past the elegant, historic houses. 

Despite the city’s wealth, the residents have been known for their simplicity. On the subject of beauty, and regardless of historical era, minimalism and a desire for less has always been a hallmark of elegance, considered a more sophisticated kind of beauty. 

Viewed from this perspective, Padua’s aesthetic treasures are abundantly clear.

It's easy to tell that it’s still a wealthy city. 

Gucci, Prada, Louis Vuitton, and Moncler all have stores here, through the large shop windows I can see items from the latest season on sale. Once, not long ago, I would go to these kinds of stores to buy my clothes. I would be able to look at a shirt and know from which season it was, and I knew the names and faces of all head designers of the world’s fashion houses. 

Looking back, it feels very distant, and I can’t even understand the appeal. 

Luxury fashion is all smoke and mirrors, telling stories about craftsmanship while the quality is no better than what is churned out by fast fashion brands. It’s an empty world and the logotypes signify nothing, they are devoid of meaning and symbolism.

In Padua, I walk past these stores and instead head to Drogheria Preti, in operation since 1936 (and with most of its original décor intact), and the best place to go if you’re interested in local, alcoholic specialties. 

Almost twenty years ago, the Direzione Regionale per i Beni Culturali e Paesaggistici del Veneto decided that its interiors are so historically and culturally valuable that they formally recognized the store and established sanctions to protect its architecture and design. 

They carry several niche liqueurs, made by local producers, some only available in this store.

There is something very special about Italian typography that I don’t see in many other countries. Like Italian architecture and city planning, where some houses have stood in the same place for hundreds of years, the labels on many bottles rarely change. 

That's why a visit to Drogheria Preti is like traveling back in time; the attention given to a cover in the 1930s is still visible today, as the label has not changed. I bought a couple of bottles, partly because I like liqueur, and partly because the bottles were so beautiful.

Today we live in an era of ugliness, where efficiency, high speed and large scale are rewarded. That's why it's pleasant to browse the shelves of a small shop like this one, where the assortment has looked the same for decades.

(My only issue is that I'm the only person I know who likes liqueur, so I either have to drink alone or not at all.)

Not far from there (in Padova's city centre, everything is close by) is Bar al Museo, a charming and simple bar where you can have a coffee or beer in the shade. 

Here too, the respect for the past is palpable, and we go here not only for the friendly service but also for the interior, intact since the mid-20th century.

On your way here, remember to be careful. What all university cities have in common is inexperienced cyclists. 

Many people love cycling in flat cities with limited car traffic, but far from everyone is good at it. Several times, I see bicycles slowly wobbling in the alleys, dangerously close to house facades, cars and pedestrians. 

In theory, cycling is an ideal mode of transport, but not always in practice.

The University of Padua, founded in 1222, is one of the oldest in Italy, but it also has a part that was designed by Gio Ponti as late as in the 1940s. The meeting of old and new appears seamless. A university is exposed to a lot of wear and tear, but you can still clearly see the delicate lightness that characterizes Ponti's work.

One of the best restaurants in Padua is also one of the simplest. All’ombra della Piazzais a small natural wine bar, a typical hole in the wall type of place. Their tasty and affordable pizzas are so small that you can eat them quickly, paired with a glass of wine of your choosing. 

The atmosphere is relaxed, dogs sleep on the floor while people stand in the portico outside, having a cigarette.

Speaking of food, the food market on Piazza delle Erbe is also worth a visit, with about 70 stands selling high-quality vegetables, often grown locally. Since there are no hotels worth staying in, why not rent an apartment instead. 

That way, you’ll have access to a kitchen also have a reason to buy ingredients. The market is south of the beautiful Palazzo della Ragione. The lower part was built in 1166, and the second level was added in the early 13th century. It’s particularly famous for the frescoed loggia, realized by Giotto.

And what did I think of Uva, you might wonder? 

We didn’t get to go! Unfortunately, due to poor planning on our side, we timed our visit with a period when they were temporarily closed. 

This means that we already have a reason to return.