Lohi Telegram: A Spontaneous Trip to Chioggia

Southern Europe is currently experiencing an intense heat wave, and anyone with any kind of common sense (and flexible work hours) is leaving the big cities to head to the coast (or the mountains, depending on preference and location).

In places like Madrid, Paris, and Lisbon, many locals have closed their restaurants and shops, the sun is blazing and the air quality dangerously low.

Also in Italy, the heat is rising, and so on a particularly hot and humid day last week, we decided to go to Chioggia.

The town is only 16 miles south of Venice but still feels like another world.

For decades, it’s been popular among travellers from eastern Europe, but it’s still not at all as crowded as its more illustrious famous neighbour, which is having to come up with different ways of combatting the many problems of over-tourism.

In comparison, Chioggia feels like a completely normal city; it’s a bit grittier than Venice, and doesn’t have that Disneyesque vibe, but that isn’t necessarily a bad thing.

In fact, it feels more relaxed and you don’t have to wait in line simply to get a coffee or to buy a bottle of water.

Chioggia is known as “Little Venice” and the name is apt – the town is pretty much a smaller version of its northern sibling.

The canals are fewer, the palaces aren’t as extravagant, and the town centre is smaller, but the atmosphere and aesthetic are still unmistakably Venetian (or should I say “Chioggian”).

One advantage that Chioggia has over Venice is the proximity to the beach; it’s just a ten-minute walk from the historic centre to the long sandy beach of Sottomarina.

This area is completely different from the rest of the town, and it will feel like you are vacationing in two wildly different place (which you are, as Chioggia is even older than Venice, while most buildings of Sottomarina are from the 20th century).

The northern shores of the Adriatic Sea will never be on a list of the world’s best beaches, but they’re easily accessible, people are friendly, and you’re close to hundreds of great restaurants and bars, so there’s no point in complaining.

Even now, almost a week later, I think back to the days spent on the beach in Chioggia and long to return.

What to do if you tire of the beach?

Chioggia is home to the world's oldest clock, dating back to 1386. Normally you can go inside the tower and visit a vertical museum, spread over seven floors, which tells the story of the city's history. The clock is magnificent, and on the seventh floor there’s a terrace with panoramic views of the city. However, this summer the museum is temporarily closed. Perhaps it’s as well, the heat makes the beach more appealing than a historical museum.

Many guidebooks about Chioggia highlight how bike-friendly the town is, and this is certainly true. The town is flat, and bikes are easy to rent.

Just keep in mind that many people who cycle on holiday don't do it daily. In other words, watch out for bikes in the narrow calli! I had close encounters on several occasions.

Do you want to get out of the way of all the rental bikes?

Ca' Roman, the southernmost stretch of shore separating the lagoon from the sea, is a verdant wooded area with a wild beach in the middle of the Venetian Lagoon, only a 15-minute vaporetto ride from central Chioggia.

The town sits between the lagoon and the sea, and this location is reflected in the local cuisine.

Many restaurants serve seafood, but also high-quality vegetables, grown locally. Depending on the season, look out for pumpkins, onions and radishes.

El Gato is a classic, but we particularly liked Osteria del Teatro dai do Fradei, an unpretentious neighbourhood restaurant that serves classics, and with welcoming service.

Most people who come here visit from Venice, drawn here by their fascination of seeing another Venice. That means that most visitors are day-trippers, and so Chioggia is not really a hotel town.

There are many anonymous budget-friendly options to choose from, and there is not really a big difference between them, in terms of quality.

Pick the one closest to what you want to do and see.

Here is the soundtrack to our stay in Chioggia:, perfect for a lazy summer day: