The Italian Estate / Vestige Son Vell
Some places are more cinematic than others. Even though it’s located in Spain, Vestige Son Vell looks like the film set for a romantic story about life in 19th century Italy. The original reason for its Italian design on this Spanish island has been lost forever to the past (as eventually happens to most things).
The estate is over 200 years old (“son” means “farm” and “vell” old, so Son Vell literally translates to “the old farm” or “the old estate”), immaculately restored by the Vestige team, and today surrounded by gardens, olive trees, and 180 hectares of working farmland.
At lunchtime, the restaurant would reopen, now serving a selection of light and healthy plates. The salads are excellent, but I especially enjoyed the mussels, steamed with oloroso wine, saffron, parsley, shallots, and cream. If you’re looking for something filling, both the tomato pasta and vegetable rice are good options.
After lunch, we would rest for a while in the shade, taking in the scents of the nearby garden, full of lavender.
Both swimming pools are nice but in very different ways. The heated one is elegant and stylish, while the other is less crowded, perfect for long swims in solitude. Every morning before breakfast, I would go to the latter to allow my body to wake up at its own pace, stretching out in the clear, cold water.
Afterwards, I would go back to our room, enjoying a warm shower in what must be one of the best bathrooms I’ve ever experienced. The shower is big enough to feel like its own separate room, complete with a skylight, almost like having your own personal spa. This impression is further enhanced by the selection of ROWSE products available; 100 percent natural, plant-based, organic small batch beauty products.
The hotel’s 33 suites are spread out in different buildings, some are in the main house, others are in a separate area, with small gardens attached to each suite. They’re all generously proportioned, and so it’s easy to relax in the privacy of your own suite, though the compound is so beautiful that I was torn between wanting to spend time on our own, in our suite, and exploring the property.
The estate is a perfect place for cycling and walking – you can either stay on the compound or follow the bridle path, Camí de Cavalls, which encircles the island. It will take you through diverse landscapes, including woodland, rocky zones, wetlands, and forests that reach down to the water’s edge. There’s even a small cove almost exactly where you enter the path, if you’re coming from Son Vell, complete with a small beach, and large rocks for sunbathing. But if you want to find a place more private and farther from the hotel, simply follow along the path and you’ll find many other small beaches, hidden from the rest of the world.
The hotel offers a wide variety of excursions. We opted for the art tour of Ciutadella; together with a specialist guide, we visited an art foundation and several galleries, where we met with local artists. We also visited the studio of an artisan who made the traditional Menorcan sandal, by hand while we watched (the store was well worth the visit, with a great variety of beautiful handmade items).
We could have opted for a boat charter, to see Menorca from a coastal perspective, or done a paddle tour, or taken riding lessons on the Cami de Cavalls.
When we asked which was the most popular, our guide laughed and said that often people make many plans and wish to go on many of the excursions, but once they’ve arrived and seen the beauty of the estate, they cancel more or less everything, and spend their time walking around in the garden or going for a swim in the ocean or lounge around the swimming pool. It’s easy to see why – Menorca is a fascinating place with a rich history, but Son Vell offers calmness and relaxation.
Many come to Son Vell specifically for its main restaurant, Vermell (meaning “red” in the local dialect). Operated by Executive Chef Joan Bagur, the restaurant has secured an entry in Spain’s version of the Michelin Guide, Guia Repsol.
The cuisine is a mix of flavourful traditional Menorcan culinary traditions with modern, international dishes, while the service was informal and friendly, exactly the type of interaction you want in a high-end restaurant where the food is so refined you don’t always know what you’re eating. The ambitious wine list is spectacular, and the desserts are a must.
