Lisbon / A Maze of Wonders

Travellers looking for a European city destination often choose between cities such as Paris, Rome, or London. Paris is marked by Haussman’s radical transformation from mediaeval town to the world’s most modern city in the 19th century. Rome, the eternal city, has seen empires come and go, while London is the centre of contemporary fashion and art. In comparison, Lisbon doesn’t have the same type of distinct profile.

To the north and east, Portugal shares a border with Spain. To the west and south, it faces the Atlantic. This means that, regardless of its impressive past and rich contemporary culture, today it is a rather – geographically and travel-wise speaking – peripheral country. This is by no means a disadvantage, as it has allowed Portugal to safeguard its cultural heritage and for Lisbon to develop organically, while keeping its traditional customs and aesthetic expressions intact. Perhaps this is also why the first impression of the city can appear slightly confusing for a first-time visitor.

Like Rome, Lisbon was built on seven hills. These hills remain important to the city still today, but make it difficult to orientate oneself. The highest of them is the São Roque Hill, which offers one of the most widespread viewpoints of the town. Another is the São Jorge Hill, which includes the Castle of São Jorge, part of the Alfama area, one of the oldest parts of the city and once deliberately designed as a labyrinth, making it easy to get lost in its many alleys.

When it comes to finding the best view of Lisbon, nothing beats the 360-degree panoramic scenery from the roof terraces of Mosteiro de São Vicente de Fora.

Where other European capitals are seemingly purposely planned to show off the splendour and wealth of their rulers, with large boulevards that spread out from star-shaped roundabouts, Lisbon’s many hills and slopes make the city a fascinating maze of wonders. 

Neighbourhoods seem to overlap in unexpected places, streets twist and turn, while old alleys suddenly turn into giant squares, such as the Praça do Comércio, the largest plaza in all of Europe. Its local name, still commonly used, is Terreiro do Pago, which translates to “Palace Yard”, as this was once the home of the royal palace, until it was destroyed in the great 1795 Lisbon earthquake. This shows how, through the collective memory of Lisbon’s locals, the past is kept alive through language and traditions. 

Another place marked by earthquakes is Convento do Carmo, built in 1389 in the Gothic style, but destroyed by an earthquake in 1755. Since then, parts of the ruins have been restored, and today it is a fascinating place to visit.   ‘

What shouldn’t be missed in Lisbon? 

Obviously, visiting one of the many sites with traditional, glazed tile panels is high on most people’s list, such as the Museu Nacional do Azulejo (the National Tile Museum). The museum is set in the Madré de Deus Convent, founded in 1509 and a place of cultural interest in itself – in particular its Baroque gilded, carved wood, paintings and tile panels. 

A completely different kind of experience is offered by the Museum Gulbenkian, located in a wonderfully brutalist building, considered one of the most significant modernist buildings in all of Portugal. The collection, home to more than 6,000 art objects, is dimly lit rooms in which the vast, polished wooden floors reflect the ceiling lights.

A more recent museum addition to Lisbon is the MAAT (short for the Museum of Art, Architecture, and Technology). Its organic and soft shapes reflect a more contemporary aesthetic, the man made building imitating nature. Only a few minutes by foot, along the northern banks of the Tagus River, stands the Monument of Discoveries (or Padrão dos Descobrimentos in Portuguese), in the same place where ships would depart to explore and trade with India and the Orient.

The monument is a reminder and celebration of the “age of Discovery'' that took place in the 15th and 16th centuries, when Portugal was one of the most important countries in international trade. The area surrounding the monument, and which MAAT is part of, is made up of several museums and cultural institutions, including the Museum of Popular Art, the Belém Cultural Centre, Jardim Vasco da Gama, and the Hieronymite Monastery (Mosteiro dos Jerónimos).

Anyone visiting Lisbon will immediately sense its rich and vibrant history. In fact, Lisbon is the second oldest (naturally, Athens is the oldest) of the European capitals, and one of the oldest cities in the entire world. The name probably comes from the Celtic world Olissippo, and it has been ruled by everyone from Julius Caesar to several Germanic tribes and the Moors.

In 1147, Lisbon was conquered by Afonso Henriques and ever since, it has been the political, economic, and cultural centre of Portugal. A visit to Lisbon is to glimpse into the vibrant history of many empires, artists and visionaries, while also being a distinctly contemporary experience.

One of the most characteristic symbols of Lisbon is the old-fashioned yellow streetcar, seen slowly making its way along the winding streets. Another is the Santa Justa Lift, an elevator inaugurated as part of the city’s public transport system (at the time known as Elevator do Carmo). At the top, there is a stunning observation deck with views of the Baixa neighbourhood, and today it’s one of the most popular viewpoints in Lisbon.

To Stay

Hotel Santa Clara 1728 Silent Living – Elegant, relaxed hotel and the perfect base for exploring Lisbon.

Memmo Príncipe Real –Hotel with 41 rooms in the Moorish Alfama district, it is within walking distance to most of central Lisbon and also offers great views of the city.

Solar do Castelo – Situated in an 18th century building, with interiors designed by Atelier Graca Viterbo, this hotel offers a warm atmosphere, further enhanced by the cobbled inner courtyard.

Altis Belém Hotel & Space – A skip and a beat from Lisbon’s centre, Altis lies on the banks of the Tagus River, close to the Tower of Belém.

Fortaleza do Guincho

Actually not located in Lisbon but a 30 minute drive from the city, the fortress-turned-hotel is a great getaway for those who enjoy being close to nature, particularly the combination of ocean, winds, cliffs and sandy beaches. Close to the lighthouse of Cabo de Roca, Europe’s westernmost point.

To Eat and Drink

Lately, Lisbon has become known for its food and wine scene, often focusing on organic and locally sourced ingredients, produced within a zero-waste system. 

Among the most popular are Sem (Portuguese for “without”), which offers a tasting menu in a small and rustic restaurant in the Lisbon’s historical centre, and Senhor Uva (as well as its “little brother”, Senhor Manuel, located just across the street and slightly less crowded than its older sibling). 

All three restaurants have excellent selections of natural wine, and it’s perfectly possible to just stop by for a glass. 

A more traditional aspect of Lisbon’s culinary culture is the pastel de nata (custard tarts), which you should buy at Pastéis de Belém, the most iconic pastry-shop in Lisbon, conveniently located next to the Heironymite Monastery. As a result of the 1820 liberal revolution, all convents and monasteries in Portugal were shut down in 1834, the clergy and labourers expelled. To survive financially, the monastery began offering sweet pastries. The ones that you buy in the shop today are still made by hand and according to the same traditional recipe.

Koppu Ramen Izkaya – Japanese restaurant with vegetarian ramen options.

Cabane – Best vegan brunch in Lisbon.

Café de São Bento – Traditional restaurant in a Victorian interior style, this is a place popular among Portuguese politicians.

Vino Vero – A very popular wine bar with organic wine. Be sure to book a table in advance. 

Pastéis de Belém – The most classic of Lisbon’s pastry shops and cafés. With takeaway-option.

To Visit

Museu Nacional do Azulejo – National tile museum – a great place to learn more about Portuguese history

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos – A UNESCO World Heritage, this monastery and church is a notable work of architecture.

The Casa dos Bicos (“House of the Beaks/Spikes”) was built in the early 16th century, influenced by Italian Renaissance palaces but combined with the Portuguese Manueline style. Today it is the headquarters of the José Saramago Foundation.

Convento dos Capuchos – In Sintra, not far from Lisbon, lies this minimalist and humble convent dating back to Mediaeval times, a peculiar and fascinating place to visit. 

Vista Alegre is the finest porcelain company in Portugal, and their flagship store in Lisbon, on Largo do Chiado 20 23, is definitely worth a visit for the inspiration alone.