Lohi slow guide to Mykonos

Once upon a time, Mykonos was known for its simple architecture, rural landscape, and calm way of living.

It might sound like a paradox today, when it is known for its hedonistic adventures and liberated lifestyle, but in the 1950s, when the billionaires of the world began coming here, what drew them were not the nightclubs, but the lack of a social scene.

Mykonos was a way to escape it all, to be able to unbutton your shirt, take off your shoes, and go swimming in your underwear.

By 1939, when he first set foot on Mykonos, Le Corbusier was already a lauded architect. Here, he discovered the traditional architecture of the families who for generations had been living on this Cycladic island.

“Whatever architecture had to say, it is said here,” he summarised what he found on the island.

For those familiar with his impact on the history of architecture, it is easy to see the common denominators between his modernist visions and the Mykonos buildings.

Politicians, businessmen, and intellectuals living in Athens began spending their summers in Mykonos in the decade following the Second World War.

They got to know the locals, enjoyed the narrow white streets of Chora, and enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere away from the capital. As more people began travelling to the island, its reputation grew.

Aristoteles Onassis and Stavros Niarchos would arrive on their personal jets, and in 1954, Queen Frederica organized a cruise of the Greek islands for the princes and princesses of Europe.

All aboard were particularly impressed with Mykonos, which led to the foreign press writing about the island for the first time.

A completely different type of guest visited Mykonos a few years later: In 1958, a fisherman brought with him a wounded pelican back to the island.

The bird was soon named Petro (Greek for “grumpy”) and in the years that followed, he became a symbol of the island.

When he died in 1985 (after having been hit by a car), Jackie Kennedy Onassis donated a new pelican to the island, named Irene.

Already one year later, a Hamburg Zoo donated another pelican (named Petros) and a few years later, a wounded pelican found himself in Mykonos, where he has since stayed, cared for by locals.

So today, there are three pelican residents on the island.

The rich and famous paved way for a more liberated lifestyle, and in the 1970s, the island became a haven for many kinds of people seeking to escape the confinement of mainland bourgeoisie.

In particular, the gay community found in Mykonos a place where no one seemed to care, and so Mykonos became a destination not only for the world’s elite, but also for those looking to have a good time and to escape prying eyes.

If you plan on going here, consider also Meltemi, the dry northern wind that blows over the Aegean Sea, mainly in July and August (which coincidentally is the high season of Mykonos).

It is created by the differences in atmospheric pressures between North Africa and the Balkans and speeds up before reaching the Cyclades.

Pack accordingly!

Restaurants

One of the most classic addresses of this time is Nammos, best described as the Mykonos version of legendary Saint Tropez-restaurant Le Club 55.

Its more contemporary version is Scorpios, named after Aristoteles Onassis’ private island.

The best time to go to Scorpios is early Sunday evening, around six or seven pm.

If you call ahead to make a reservation, they will probably tell you that they are at capacity, but dress casually and arrive spontaneously, and they will let you in.

The evening will be slow at first, but as the sun sets, the party will begin (and not end until the sunrise).

One of the best restaurants in Chora (Mykonos’ capital) is Nōema.

Designed in collaboration with K Studio in Athens, the food is organic, mainly based in vegetables and herbs that grow in the Cyclades and on other Greek islands.

Many ingredients are preserved in the spring to be used throughout the season, which allows for an experimental approach to culinary local traditions. All cheese, yoghurt, and dairy products come from a supplier on Mykonos. Drinks are made from Greek spirits made in-house.

Coya, also in Chora, is a good option for those wanting more exotic food. This Peruvian restaurant serves fusion food, with light, healthy and colourful dishes, made from ingredients provided by local suppliers.

Hotels

If you prefer to stay close to the main harbour, the best option is Bill & Coo Suites and Lounge, part of the Travel Sustainable programme.

The hotel has 32 rooms and 3 villas and is just outside of Chora.

From the terrace and overlooking the infinity pool, you will have an amazing view of the sunset.

If you want to have a more original Mykonos experience, closer to how it once was, you should leave Chora behind you and travel to the southeast part of the island, to the Kalafati region.

Here, nature is wilder and not as exploited as in other parts.

NOMAD, with only 14 rooms, is a calm and secluded retreat where you won’t be disturbed by anyone or anything.

When we checked in, the woman at the front-desk told us that after a few hours at NOMAD, many guests chose to cancel their previously made dinner reservations and ignore the list of things they had planned for their Mykonos visit. Staying here is relaxing for all senses, and once you check in, you simply don’t want to check out.

Rooms are generously sized, and the food is excellent.

Cali is the crown-jewel of Mykonos.

A recent addition, it is more like a village than a hotel, with an ecosystem of its own.

All building material have been locally sourced, and most rooms come with their own piscine. The pièce de résistance is however the 130-metres long infinity-pool, which curves along the hillside, with a breath-taking view of the hotel’s private beach and yacht.

When travelling to Mykonos today, you have the option of what kind of island you want to visit.

Do you want the high energy of beach clubs like JackieO, or do you want the relaxed and invigorating experience of Cali, perhaps taking a slow stroll along the windmills of Kato Mili before returning to the pool?

Thanks to the island’s small size (only 85,5 square kilometres) you don’t have to decide but can enjoy both.

In a way, Mykonos offers the best of two worlds – the quiet pace of its past is still there, for those who seek it, but combined with a vibrant and liberal party scene.