Napels / The Soul of Italy

Many consider Naples a necessary but rather unpleasant stop on a trip elsewhere – to Capri, Ischia, Sorrento, or one of the small towns on the Amalfi Coast. They whisk as quickly as possible through the large and noisy central station, on the lookout for pickpockets while scanning for updates on their connection to their final destination, where they will be able to relax and forget about the stressful few moments they had to spend in Naples.

This attitude is completely understandable.

For decades, Naples was known to not only be in a derelict state but downright dangerous. Houses were falling apart while the Camorra controlled the streets, resulting in the infamous waste management crisis.

Beginning in the 1980s, Naples and the surrounding areas suffered from the dumping of solid waste into overfilled landfills (with waste also coming in from northern Italy). In 1994, Campania even declared a state of emergency, which didn’t end until 2008.

The crisis, as well as the presence of the mafia, has made people – foreigners especially – hesitant to visit Naples. But among the Italians I know, the perception of Naples is different.

They often speak of Naples as the heart of Italy, as what is quintessentially the soul of the country. They say the name “Naples” with respect, almost reverence, and often pinpoint how events in Naples’ rich history has directly affected the development of Italy and Europe.

For many Italians, visiting Naples is like unlocking the key to understanding the richness of Italian history. Its architecture, cuisine, and geographical location close to both Egypt and Greece explains almost without words how Western civilisation has developed and knowledge and ideas once was shared among the great ancient societies around the Mediterranean Sea.

Naples has one of the longest histories of any city in Europe, and its origin can be traced back to the 9th century B.C., when Parthenope (or Paleopolis) was founded (subsequently re-established as Neapolis (New City) in 470 B.C.

In 2017, BBC defined Naples as “the city with too much history to handle”. It has served as capital several times – of the Duchy of Naples, of the kingdom of Sciily, of the Kingdom of Naples and finally of the Two Sicilies (until the unification of Italy in 1861). But already before that, Naples played a key role in the transmission of Greek culture to Roman society, which is still noticeable in the Ancient Greek town walls and catacombs underneath the city.

Together with Paris and Rome, for many centuries Naples was one of the most important cultural and financial centres of Europe, a living symbol of prestige, power and dignity.

The echoes and effects of the significant historical events that have taken place here are too numerous to count, making Naples one of the most exciting – and exhausting – places to visit in Italy.

The Geography of Naples

Naples is the third largest (after Rome and Milan) city in Italy.

Its rich history and complicated present makes it difficult to give a straightforward answer to which part is the most interesting to visit, and so this guide will be a personal one, marked by our preferences and habits when in Naples.

On our last visit to Naples, we spoke with an acquaintance who has lived in many parts of Europe, from London via Berlin to Malmö. About fifteen years ago, he moved back to his native Naples, and today he runs a small shop in the historical centre. He explained that when they first set up shop, the area was so dangerous that tourists almost didn’t dare – and rightly so – to visit the neighbourhood.

The Camorra ruled the streets, and the few corners they didn’t control, “independent” drug addicts and pickpockets would try their chances in. But through the collaboration between the locals and the authorities, the criminals have been chased away.

Our friend made an important observation: the more people that visit Naples, and spend both time and money here, the more the legal economy is strengthened and the mafia is pushed back. Remember this: for every souvenir and cup of coffee you buy, you help someone to remain in the legal labour force, and thus help revitalise a struggling economy.

It is thanks to regular visitors who spend their money wisely that independent business owners can create social stability in places like the historic centre, once a no-go zone even for native people.

Shopping is often like a performative ritual – exchanging one thing for another, defining the value of objects through financial transactions, but knowing that buying a pizza or a scented candle is helping people free their town of the mafia, and giving the young generation a brighter future, undoubtedly gives more meaning to these kinds of mundane everyday transactions.

The historic centre includes both Centro Storico as well as smaller districts, like the San Giuseppe (near the port of Naples), and Pendino districts. Together, the districts of Montecalvario, Avvocata, and San Ferdinando make up the Quartieri Spagnoli (or the Spanish Neighbourhood), which today is one of the most characteristic and charismatic neighbourhoods of Naples.

Not long ago, this was a dangerous place that visitors were advised to avoid, especially at night. Nowadays, it’s the opposite, as people tend to seek out the local trattorias and great osterias of this area.

The posh end of Naples is Chiaia, where you can find international luxury brands like Prada and Louis Vuitton. But unlike similar areas in towns of the same size, the vibe here is more laidback and hipster-ish.

You will find bars serving natural wines, and families getting together in the small gardens in front of their houses.

Above Chiaia, perched on a cliff, is the more residential (but equally elegant) district Vomero, which you can either reach by walking (not really recommended, though it’s a good exercise) or by taking the funicular.

From here, you have a wonderful view of the Tyrrhenian Sea and Bay of Naples, while also getting a welcome rest from the crowds below.

Personally, I love the people-spotting in the Quartieri Spagnoli – the people in Southern Italy have the best and most independent fashion sense in all of Europe – but the place is hectic and noisy, and if you’re not used to this kind of atmosphere, it’s very nice to know where to go to unwind for a bit.

Where to Stay

As already stated, for many years Naples was not on the map for international tourists, and unfortunately, this translates into a rather meagre selection of nice hotels. A place that we have stayed at several times and that has never disappointed is Decumani Hotel de Charme. In particular, there is one room with a semi-private terrace, which is the perfect place to relax after a long day in the city. However, this is located in the Centro Storico, and many people might feel that the area is still a bit rough, especially at night-time. If so, we suggest staying a but further from the city, Primo Piano Posillipo. Posillipo is the name of a seaside residential area just outside of central Naples (from where you have great views of Vesuvio), and Primo Piano is a charming, nicely designed bed & breakfast with a very friendly touch. Not far from the hotel, you can have lunch at Rosiello’s (Via Santo Strato, 10), where the best option is to sit outside, weather allowing.

The area for more established and high-end hotels is Santa Lucia, which is also close to the port, convenient if you’re either planning to continue your trip to one of the nearby islands, or if you’re thinking of taking a day trip to the Amalfi Coast. The best option isHotel Excelsior, the grande dame of Naples hotels.

Where to Eat and Drink

‘Even if you don’t stay at Hotel Excelsior, their rooftop terrace is a nice place to go for an aperitivo. However, if it’s difficult to find a decent hotel in Naples, the opposite is true when it comes to the selection of restaurants.

First thing’s first – Naples is known to have the best pizzas in the world. Everyone who travels regularly to Naples has their own idea of which place is the best, and we won’t argue, there are many places with excellent pizza.

One of the most unassuming yet most famous pizza places is Pizza Fritta da Fernanda (Via Speranzella, 180) in the Spanish Neighbourhood, where pizza is served as street food. Pizzeria la Notizia was made famous by Stanley Tucci, who included it in his TV show on Italian cuisine. Personally, we never miss going to Ristorante Pizzeria Gorizia 1916 in Vomero. Being non-native Italians, the service is somewhat nonchalant, but the pizza is so good, the interiors so elegant, and the general ambience so great that we don’t really care.

When you’re around the central station, you realise that the dodgy past of Naples is not so far away. There is something in the air which makes it feel generally unsafe, though it might be difficult to pinpoint exactly what it is. However, this is also where one of Naples’ most historic restaurants is located: Mimi alla Ferrovia, long-time favourite among Italian celebrities, intellectuals, and politicians. A traditional kind of place, with white linen tablecloths and impeccable service. Not to be missed.

A more rustic option is Taverna dell’Arte in Centro Storico, and next door to Osteria La Chitarra, serving local delicacies in an unassuming but charming place.

For a more contemporary dining (and drinking) experience, go to JUS Enoteca Naturale in the Chiaia district, where the food is locally sourced and wines are natural. When making the reservation, remember that Naples is a town where most things happen later than usual.

Not to be missed is a coffee (or gelato or drink) at Gran Caffè Gambrinus, the oldest and most prestigious café in Naples, right on the corner of Piazza del Plebiscito (and across from the Galleria Umberto I, which is very similar in design to Milan’s Vittorio Emanuele II but without the luxury shops or even tourists).

The café opened already in 1860 and has an illustrious past, with regulars such as Oscar Wilde (who stayed in Naples after his sentencing), Empress Sisi of Austria, Gabriele D’Annunizio (who wrote the song “A vucchella” here), and Jean-Paul Sartre. It was shut down by officials in the 1930s, as it took an anti-Fascist stance. But times change and since the 1970s it is once again in business, first reopened by Michele Sergio and today run by his two sons, Arturo and Antonio.

Sights and Shops

What to do in Naples? As already stated, one of the most rewarding experiences is to simply do nothing and just look at the people passing by. The best place to do this is the terrace of Gran Caffè Gambrinus – make sure you get a spot with a view of Via Toledo, which is the main Street of the Spanish Quarters.

If you continue up this street, in a few minutes, on your right side, you will come to the very elegant Palazzo del Banco di Napoli, which today houses the Gallerie d'Italia, a very nice art museum.

Across the street from the café is the Royal Palace of Naples. Many people hesitate going to yet another royal palace, thinking that they are all more or less the same, ornate variations of a very dated theme, but the palace in Naples is truly worth visiting.

The majestic entrance hall takes you up to the first floor, where you will have spectacular views of the symmetrical Piazza del Plebiscito and also a glimpse of the Bay of Naples.

After your palatial visit, perhaps you will want to contrast the splendour with something completely different. Go underground, to the old catacombs under Naples. The Sotterranea is one of the city’s main attractions (but check opening hours before you go).

Once you’ve re-emerged from the underground, follow the stream of people up Via Toledo, and you will soon arrive at an unusual tourist attraction; the metro stop of Via Toledo Stazione. Much attention has been given to metro stops in Naples, making the underground and collective travel of the city a very aesthetic experience. Among all the metro stops, Toledo is by far the most interesting.

On your way, make sure to stop by one of the world’s most unique umbrella shops. For almost 80 years, Mario Talarico, the fourth generation of umbrella makers, has had a small shop (Mario Talarico dal 1860) at Vico Due Porte a Toledo 4/B, where all umbrellas are still made by hand. If you want to own an umbrella crafted by the same hands that make umbrellas for the pope, this is where you should go.  

Continuing on, and walking from the Spanish Neighbourhood to the Centro Storico, you will soon arrive at the Santa Chiara di Napoli, famous for their courtyard, richly decorated with majolica.

The garden is a very typical example of the cultural history and traditions of southern Italy, today manifested in fashion brands like Dolce & Gabbana. Don’t forget to buy some of the convent’s locally sourced and produced limoncello before you leave.

Around the corner from Santa Chiara is the Gesù nuovo, a church impossible to miss thanks to its distinct façade. Next to the church is a shop devoted to the iconic Strega liqueur, one of Italy's most famous liqueurs. Its flavour is unmistakable, thanks to the use of only natural ingredients. Its yellow colour comes from the saffron.

It's made from around 70 different herbs, including mint and fennel, and typically had at the end of a meal, as a digestive.

Further into Centro Storico you will find Kiphy, where some of the best artisanal soaps in all of Italy (if not Europe) are manufactured and sold. In 2000, owners Pina and Gennaro began making their own soaps, combining new techniques with natural ingredients and ancient traditions. Because of this natural approach, the soaps are perfect for any kind of skin, even the most sensitive.

The Kiphy soaps are made using an all-natural “cold” method, not using any machinery, allowing them to conserve the natural oils. The name itself comes from an ancient Egyptian perfume, used by Egyptians 4,000 years ago mornings and evenings to make the transition from being awake to being asleep more seamless.

All products are 100 percent plant-based, biodegradable and do not contain any synthetic fragrances. Note that there is even a palm oil-free line, based in sesame or calendula oil. There is no artificial colouring, no tensioactive materials, and no petroleum-based chemicals in any of the soaps.

Not far, into an area that was if possible even more dangerous to visit only a few years ago, is the Naples National Archaeological Museum, with a seemingly infinite amount of treasures from Naples’ long history.

Many people choose to also go a few blocks into this area, in order to see firsthand the Palazzo dello Spagnuolo, known for its exquisite exteriors (and this is also home to a popular bed & breakfast, Casa D'Anna ai Cristallini).

Island Life

Once, I asked an acquaintance who works in Napolitan fashion – the city is one of the world capitals of refined and tailored menswear – what he likes the most about living in Naples. Without missing a beat, he said, “the islands”. He has a small boat and at least once a week he goes to either Capri, Ischia, or Procida.

Capri is obviously the best known of the there, created by volcanic forces thousands of years ago and today a jet set destination for oligarchs and mass tourism alike. Still breathtaking, for a temporary visitor it’s essential to know the island’s rhythm.

From around 10 am to early evening, the island is crowded by day visitors from places like Naples and Positano. In the early mornings and late evenings, however, it’s a calm and serene place. If you have the possibility, try to stay the night and you will see a completely different side to Capri than what it shows you in the hectic afternoons.

Ischia is perhaps best known for two things: its thermal baths and being the favourite vacation spot of Angela Merkel (who spends a week every Easter at the Miramare Sea Resort & Spa with her husband). But it’s also a place to enjoy the beauty of the Bay of Naples without the crowds of Capri.

Procida is the smallest and most anonymous of the islands, but most will recognise its signature pastel buildings. The reasons for the different-coloured houses was so that sailors, when at sea, would know in which house their family lived. On all three islands, lemons are grown, so be sure to try lemon gelato, lemon pasta, and the local limoncello.

Links

Hotels

Decumani Hotel de Charme – Beautiful hotel in formerly private palazzo in Centro Storico

Primo Piano Posillipo – Elegant B&B by the seaside, just outside of the city centre.

Hotel Excelsior – The grand dame of Naples hotels, in the Santa Lucia district.

Casa D'Anna ai Cristallini – popular B&B with a very personal touch.

Restaurants

Pizzeria la Notizia – Naples is the home of pizza and this is one of the best pizzerias in town.

Pizza Fritta da Fernanda, Via Speranzella, 180 – Pizza as streetfood.

Ristorante Pizzeria Gorizia 1916 – Our personal favourite when it comes to pizzerias, in the Vomero district.

Mimi alla Ferrovia – The most classic of Naples’ restaurants, famous for their traditional cuisine.

Taverna dell’Arte – rustic and charming in Centro Storico.

Osteria La Chitarra – next door to Taverna dell’Arte, serving local delicacies.

JUS Enoteca Naturale – natural wines and locally sourced food.

Gran Caffè Gambrinus, the oldest and most prestigious café in Naples, right on the corner of Piazza del Plebiscito.

Sights and shops
Gallerie d'Italia – Elegant art museum in 1930s building on Via Toledo.

The Royal Palace of Naples – The sumptuous palace that tells the rich story of royal Naples.

The Sotterranea – Underground Naples, one of the most spectacular places to visit.

Santa Chiara di Napoli – Beautiful majolica-decorated courtyard.

Gesù nuovo – Interesting church, around the corner from Santa Chiara.

Kiphy – Don’t miss this artisanal soap shop.

Naples National Archaeological Museum – Impressive museum with wonderful ancient collections.

Mario Talarico dal 1860 – the world’s most famous handmade umbrellas.