Copenhagen / Scandinavian Capital of Design

To a foreign visitor, the Scandinavian countries – Denmark, Norway, and Sweden – might seem quite similar. The languages sound pretty much the same, and their history has often been intertwined, making the Nordic capitals appear very much the same to those not sensitive to details.

The Kalmar Union (1397–1523) joined for hundreds of years the three kingdoms under a single monarch. Following the end of the union, Norway and Denmark entered a union that didn’t end until 1814.

Today, the Greater Copenhagen Region consists of eastern Denmark and large parts of southern Sweden, making it an international and culturally diverse area. This is also the place where I grew up.

For the first twenty years of my life, I lived in a town approximately an hour north of Copenhagen, on the Swedish coast but only twenty minutes by ferry from Denmark. As for most people who grow up close to a larger city, Copenhagen had a magnetic pull. We would go there to see theatre plays and ballet, for museum visits, dinners (and later, when I was older, drinks), and for buying secondhand clothes and design items in the many small vintage and antique shops all around the city.

This last piece of information is not unimportant. During WWII, both Norway and Denmark were occupied by Germany, while Sweden remained a free country. This meant that Sweden, with its infrastructure intact, became very affluent in the post-war period, unlike its Nordic neighbours, who had to rebuild their countries.

The new wealth catapulted Sweden into modernity, and as a result the country tore down thousands of ancient buildings across the country, and demolished hundreds of mediaeval city centres.

Unable to do the same, the architecture in Denmark and Norway remained untouched. This means that today, visiting Copenhagen is a bit like stepping back in time, seeing a city unscathed by both WWII bombings and of subsequent modernist fantasies.

Contemporary buildings have been elegantly incorporated into empty lots in the city, creating a dynamic interaction between historical monuments and today’s aesthetics.

In the years following the end of the war, the Scandinavian design industry went through an unprecedented boom. Everything from product design to architecture seemed to experience a renaissance.

Danish designers like Arne Jacobsen, Hans Wegner, Børge Mogensen, Poul Kjærholm, Kaare Klint, and Poul Henningsen made Denmark the most prominent nation in the world of mid-century modern design, a legacy still noticeable in Copenhagen today.

For many years, Copenhagen had a reputation of being a bit rough around the edges. While this still holds some truth, in recent years the city has become more sophisticated, not least when it comes to the many new restaurants based in slow food philosophy and natural wine-bars.

Copenhagen is also obviously defined through its close proximity to dynamic neighbours Berlin, Antwerp, and Amsterdam, making it part of a Northern European community of creative cities.

Around Amalienborg

There is a grandeur to Copenhagen, a reminder of its past as an influential and powerful player in world politics. Amalienborg Palace is the royal family’s winter palace and consists of not one but four different castles, built by four noble families in the middle of the 18th century on orders by the king Frederik V. It is considered one of the greatest masterpieces of Rococo architecture in Europe, and every day at noon, you can watch the change of the guards in the courtyard.

To know if the Queen is home or not, simply look at the roof. If the flag is raised, the Queen is in Copenhagen. The royal castle is just around the corner from Nyhavn, one of the most popular places in the city.

Nearby is one of the most unique of Copenhagen’s museums. Klunkehjemmet (or “The Victorian Home”) was the home of merchant Rudolph Christensen, who was part-owner of the ribbon factory Christensen and Hansen (with a store on Østergade). The family home was furnished by some of the best interior designers of its time, and has remained unaltered ever since.

It’s also close to the park Kongens Have (“The King’s Garden”, and while here, don’t miss the royals’ former summer castle, Rosenborg) as well as the Botanical Garden and Kastellet, an old citadel in the shape of a star. Another impressive museum is SMK (or Statens Museum for Kunst), while Den Frie is one of the oldest and most prestigious arenas for contemporary art in Copenhagen.

Indre By

The city centre, or the “Indre by” as it’s known in Danish (and which Nyhavn is part of), is where most of the city’s sights are located. Strøget and its nearby streets is the main shopping street, and where you will find many Danish classics, such as Royal Copenhagen (for traditional Danish china), Illums Bolighus (Danish furniture and home accessories), and Hay (contemporary interiors).

This area is usually crowded, and even though I enjoy Strøget for nostalgic reasons, it’s more fun to explore the many smaller side streets, with more unique restaurants and shops.

For example, check out the area around the fashion store Storm (where you can find shirts from mpfen, whose garments are made from exclusive deadstock, often from European luxury brands like Martin Margiela and Valentino).

Opposite Nyhavn is Kunsthal Charlottenborg, one of Europe’s largest museums for contemporary art.

If you prefer more classic art, head over to Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, home to Northern Europe’s largest collection of antique art. If you recognize the name, it’s because it was founded by Carl Jacobsen, owner of Carlsberg brewery.

Close by is Thorvaldsen’s Museum, which was the first public museum building when it opened its doors 175 years ago. It was built to exhibit the life’s work of sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen (who is buried in the museum’s courtyard).

A strange (but beautiful) place to visit is Rundetaarn, which more or less is just a long, slow upwards walk, albeit in a tower from 1642, up to a roof from where you have 360 degree-views over the city.

Other areas

Copenhagen is the largest of the Scandinavian capitals, and also the one most continental in character. As such, there are many different neighbourhoods, with very different types of personalities.

Fredriksberg is formally an independent municipality, but also an integrated part of central Copenhagen. It is affluent, and definitely worth a visit. Kødbyen is part of Vesterbro. The name translates into “Meat Village”, which reminds many of New York’s Meatpacking District. Once a place where cattle were slaughtered and butchered, the low rents have attracted many artists and other creative people to the area, and today it is a mix of old industrial buildings and popular restaurants and bars.

Islands Brygge has very popular public harbour baths. One of the most popular is right across the bridge from the city centre. There are five pools all in all, two of which are specifically for children.

Where to eat and drink

To be honest, and even though it’s beautiful, Nyhavn is a bit touristic. But Restaurant Zeleste, with its mix of French and Scandinavian dishes, served in one of Copenhagen’s oldest buildings and centred around a cosy courtyard, has been a personal favourite for decades.

Opposite Nyhavn is Apollo Bar, a smart, relaxed place with natural wines and great food, also nice to stop at just for a coffee or quick drink.

If you want to experience a true Copenhagen classic, visit Café Victor, opposite the city’s legendary Hotel D’Angleterre. Also in this area, and if the weather allows for alfresco dining, make a reservation at La Vecchia Signora, famous for their excellent pizza, supposedly the best in the city.

Also close by is Pistolstræde, an ancient covered street with several nice cafés and bistros.

For lunch, a place favoured by many locals is Torvehallerne, a simple and rustic food market with several cheap and cheerful options.

Only about ten years ago, Vesterbro was a rundown (and generally not a pleasant) area to be in. But this has changed and today many of the best restaurants are found here. Italo Thai is an Italian restaurant with a Thai twist, a nod to the Thai take away-restaurant that used to be here. Not far from Italo Thai is Italo Disco, also with Italian food, paired with natural wines. Les Trois Cochons, in the same area, continues to be a nice option for those preferring French cuisine.

Restaurant Babylon is housed in a quaint white wooden house on a bridge crossing Peblinge Sø. When the weather allows, getting a table outside is strongly recommended. If you continue across the bridge, into the Nørrebro neighbourhood, you will reach Copenhagen’s best vegan bistro, Baka d’ Busk, which combines their popular plant-based dishes with a great selection of natural wines.

If you’re only looking for a drink (as opposed to having a full dinner), go to Rouge Oysters – small, intimate, and artsy.

Where to stay

The best hotel in Copenhagen is without a doubt Hotel Sanders. It has everything you want, including a great, central location. The only downside is that it is on the expensive side.

Hotel Nobis is another very central option, while Villa Copenhagen is closer to the central station. Both friendly, comfortable and excellent options.

Guldsmeden’s Manon Les Suites is famous for the swimming pool that the hotel is seemingly built around, and from the rooftop restaurant terrace, you have beautiful views of the city.

Outside Copenhagen

If you fancy a daytrip, you should visit ARKEN Museum of Modern Art, only about 30 minutes from central Copenhagen (and less than an hour by train).

If you travel in the opposite direction, you will find three museums that are all both close to one another and to Copenhagen, and all reachable by train. Closest to Copenhagen is Ordrupgaard, an old mansion with a wonderful sculpture park. Part of the park is also architect and designer Finn Juhl’s former private home, one of the finest examples of mid-century modern design, which also demonstrates how much Scandinavian contemporary design has been inspired by traditional Japanese craftsmanship.

A few minutes north by train is famed author Karen Blixen’s former home Rungstedlund, a mansion in the well-to-do seaside town Rungsted Kyst. Her many years in Africa are clearly noticeable in the interiors, which mixes expressions of Scandinavian aristocracy with Kenyan culture. And just north of Rungstedlund is Louisiana, one of the world’s greatest museums of modern art, known equally for its exquisite architecture and position, overlooking the Sound and the small island Ven.

Not in the mood for a train ride? There is one destination that is only a metro ride away, or for those who prefer to walk, a long-ish promenade away. Grundtvig’s Church is an amazing example of neo-gothic architecture, designed by master builder and architect Peder Vilhelm Jensen Klint. His son, Kaare Klint, finished his father’s work in 1940, including the chairs made of beech wood with a wickerwork seat, today a Danish furniture design classic.

Links

Hotels

Hotel Sanders – Copenhagen’s best hotel.

Hotel Nobis – comfortable hotel in great location, next to the Tivoli.

Villa Copenhagen – conveniently located by the Central Station.

Guldsmeden’s Manon Les Suites – hotel with very nice indoor swimming pool.

Restaurants and bars

Zeleste – mix of French and Scandinavian cuisine in one of Copenhagen’s oldest buildings.

Apollo Bar – restaurant and bar trendy among the artsy crowd

Café Victor – a true Copenhagen classic.

La Vecchia Signora – best pizza in the city.

Torvehallerne – a covered food market with plenty of choice.

Italo Thai – Italian trattoria with a taste of Thai.

Italo Disco – Italian food and natural wines.

Les Trois Cochons – French-styled bistro, popular among the locals.

Baka d’ Busk – best plant-based food in Copenhagen, combined with excellent natural wines.

Rouge Oysters – small, intime, and artsy.

Shops

Storm – contemporary fashion, bot menswear and women’s wear.

Illums Bolighus – Danish design classics

Royal Copenhagen – Danish china since 1775.

Hay – contemporary interiors.

mpfen – smart, sustainable shirt Danish shirt brand.

Museums

Kunsthal Charlottenborg – centrally located space for contemporary art.

ARKEN Museum of Modern Art – modern art museum south of the city.

Ordrupgaard – former manor turned museum and sculpture park.

Finn Juhl’s former private home – an extraordinary insight into one of the world’s most beautiful mid-century modern houses.

Rungstedlund – former home of author Karen Blixen (also known as Isak Dinesen).

Lousiana – go here both for the art and for the architecture.

Rundetaarn – observation tower from 1642.

Amalienborg Palace – royal palace with its own museum.

Grundtvig’s Church - gothic church, open to the public (for free).