Oslo / Scandinavian Miami

There is a before and an after in Oslo’s history. In the late 1960s, Norway found oil in the bottom of the Northern Sea. At first, the findings were limited, but soon it was evident that the small, impoverished northern country had found a natural source that would soon make them rich.

Historically, Norway had both lacked funds and independence. In 1905, Norway’s union with Sweden had been dissolved (nearly creating a Scandinavian war, as Sweden was unwilling to relinquish its influence over Norway). 

A few years before, in 1899, the country had developed its own flag; a symbol of the Norwegians' hopes and aspirations to one day be free of their controlling “big brother”, as Sweden (not affectionately) is referred to as in both Norway and Denmark. And before Norway was governed by Sweden, it had been under Danish rule.

Norway’s former identity as a poor country in a peripheral part of the world has left its marks in Oslo. The many simple wooden houses and brick buildings from the 19th century, lacking in ornamentation, tell the story of a town without its own fortunes. But today, these areas are accompanied by contemporary skyscrapers, innovative architecture, and a very comfortable lifestyle.

Obviously, not every neighbourhood in Oslo – or Christiana, as it was known until 1925 (a name given by Danish king Christian IV in 1624) – looks like something out of a Charles Dickens novel. The town is divided into an eastern (known as “østkanten”) and western (“vestkanten”) part, and the line that separates the two is the Uelands gate.

The western areas were built primarily in the 1940s, using land that had been owned by the city since the 17th century. The division between east and west is apparent in architecture, politics, and language, and means that both the wealthiest and the poorest people in Norway call Oslo their home, but they live in different parts of the city, and under very different circumstances.

The central parts of the city are one side surrounded by the Oslo fjord and on the other by vast forests, so it’s easy to combine the urban experience with cycling, hiking, and skiing.

The strong connection to nature is further enhanced by Oslo’s small size; with only 700,000 inhabitants, it never feels crowded or overly urban.

Central Oslo: Indre by

The central part of Oslo is home to some of the oldest and newest buildings in Oslo. When it was still known as Christiania, the affluent elite would live in brick-buildings in Kvadraturen, a centrally located part of town.

Construction of the royal palace was initiated in 1824 and was soon made part of a larger city plan, redefining the central areas and making Karl Johans gate the main street of Oslo.

Nearby, on Stortingsgata 24–26, you will find our favourite restaurant in Oslo, Theatercaféen, with a very traditional European decor.

Behind the castle, beautiful houses for the affluent part of the population have been preserved from the 19th century.

The central part of Oslo is where the effects of the new and improved Norwegian economy are the most radical, giving the city an almost Miami-like vibe, with skyscrapers along the coastline. Already in the mid-80s, the (westside) neighbourhood Aker Brygge was built in a former shipyard. The area was modernised in the 2010s, creating an “inside” street that goes through the main buildings.

It is hugely popular and is one of the most visited place in Oslo, with 12 million visitors each year.

Just next to Aker Brygge is the new Nasjonalmuseet (National Museum), a kind of Armani-inspired minimalism that houses sculptures and oil paintings from the 19th century.

If you walk along Aker Brygge you will eventually reach The Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art, a contemporary art gallery funded by two philanthropic foundations with ties to the influential Fearnley shipping family. The permanent collection has works representing German Abstract Expressionism, Young British Artists as well as American and European pop-art.

The building, designed by Renzo Piano in Tjuvholmen, is worth a visit in itself, as is the area around the museum.

Warm summer evenings locals will come here to have a picnic, socialise or to go for a swim. It’s one of our favourite parts of central Oslo.

The most famous building is however not here, but part of the view from Aker Brygge and Tjuvholmen. In 2008, the Oslo Opera House, designed by the world-renowned architects at Snøhetta, forever changed the image of Oslo as a non-destination.

By commissioning a new scene for opera and ballet, the town of Oslo rebranded itself internationally. In just over a decade, the building has become the new symbol of Oslo.

The opera house is part of a new skyline in the Bjørvika area that also includes the Barcode Buildings and the Deichman Library.

A recent addition is the Edvard Munch museum, with 13 floors of art as well as a rooftop restaurant. Reviews of the new museum building have been mixed (to use a diplomatic phrasing), and after having visited, we understand the negative judgements. The building is lacklustre, and doesn’t do the art justice. It appears to lack vision. The area of Bjørvika is spectacular, but the Munch museum is not one of its strong-points.

If you continue past Bjørvika, you will soon reach Ekebergparken, a sculpture park with great views of the city and the water. Speaking of water, all around central Oslo you will find saunas floating on the water, available for rent if you’re in the mood for a sauna and a swim.

On the fjord, between the Opera house and Sørenga wharf, there are floating sauna rafts and the hot tub Oslo Fjord Sauna.

You can also try the floating sauna,with big windows that offer you a view of the city skyline, while the wood-fired stove gives you the feeling of being in a remote cabin.

West Oslo: Frogner

Personally, I have a soft spot for the western part of Oslo, not only because my father lived in Bygdøy allé the last years of his life, but because the area has such a relaxed and comfortable vibe. There are many small restaurants and cafés, as well as interior design shops.

The Vigeland installation in Frogner Park is one of the most peculiar places you can visit in Norway. Many of the more than 200 sculptures are oddly graphic, at times bordering the sexually explicit, but based in a consistent artistic integrity. This vast public park has historically been part of Frogner Manor (today the seat of Oslo Museum) and is the most visited attraction in Norway.

When visiting Oslo, the western parts are the most pleasant to stay in. Frogner House is a perfect option for those not wanting the full hotel experience but prefer to live more like a local. Here you can rent an entire flat and cook your own meals.

For a very authentic Norwegian experience, try the Holmenkollen Park Hotel.

A more extravagant option is five star-hotel Sommerro House, already popular with the locals thanks to their year-round rooftop pool and sauna.

Don’t miss their panoramic restaurant TAK, operated by award-winning chef Frida Ronge.

Michelin-starred Arakataka offers a menu of small and medium-sized plates, based on seasonal Norwegian ingredients.

East Oslo: Bohemian Chic

Le Benjamin bar & bistro – known in particular for their selection of French cheese – is one of the most popular restaurants in Oslo, so make sure to book a table in time. The Eastern neighbourhoods have in recent years been more or less transformed, and are today considered more fashionable than their Western counterparts (considered boringly bourgeois).

The most picturesque street in Oslo, Damstredet, is just around the corner from the city’s best natural wine bar, Nektar bar.

If you fancy some food to go with you wine, next-door is the French bisto Chez Colin.

A Day-Trip: The Henie Onstad Collection

Sonja Henie was one of the most famous Norwegians in modern times. A figure skater and film star, she was a three-time Olympic champion and ten-time World champion, as well as a six-time European champion.

She was one of the highest-paid stars in Hollywood, starring in several box-office hits in the 1930s and 40s. In 1955, she met Niels Onstad, who was already an art collector.

Together, they started to build their joint collection, today available at the Kunstsenter a few minutes outside of Oslo, opened to the public in 1968. They chose a team of Norwegian architects, using exclusively Norwegian materials and suppliers throughout the construction process.

The building is a delight to visit, shaped like a fan that stretches towards the fjord below.

If the weather allows, bring swimwear, as there is a small beach just next to the centre.

Links

To Stay

Frogner House allows you to rent an entire flat, where you can cook your own food and experience life as a local.

Sommerro House is a five-star hotel only a stone’s throw from central Oslo.

Holmenkollen Park Hotel is a very traditional Norwegian hotel experience.

To Eat and Drink

Theatercaféen: the grandest and most traditional of Oslo’s restaurants. In a very central location.

TAK is a rooftop restaurant in Frogner, with panoramic views of the city.

Le Benjamin bar & bistro is currently the hot-spot when it comes to dining out.

Chez Colin is an unpretentious French bistro.

Nektar bar is Oslo’s best bar for natural wines.

To Visit

The Oslo Opera House, worth a visit both for the opera and ballet and for the architecture.

Edward Munch Museum, dedicated to the works of Edward Munch.

The Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art, is a contemporary art gallery.

Najsonalmuseet – Norway’s National Museum.

The Heine Onstad Collection is our favourite art centre in Norway, only a few minutes (and reachable by bus) from central Oslo.