Paris / Capital of Fashion

The Paris syndrome, as defined by professor Hirosaki Ota, is the disappointment some travellers experience upon arriving in the French capital for the first time, and realising that it doesn’t live up to the hype.

It’s been called a “first world problem” and “fake news”, but its persistence hints that there might be something to the concept after all. Paris is one of the most mythical city in the world, renowned for its classical beauty, supposedly making people fall in love not only with the architecture and ambience of the city, but also with each other.

With expectations this high, it’s no wonder that some visitors experience disappointment at their first visit.

Parisian fashion has a long history. In 1868, La Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture was first established, a kind of lobby organisation for tailors who wanted to better regulate and upgrade their industry. This helped transform the “tailor” – who made clothes based on the wishes of his client – into the “designer”, who created fashion collections that the client could choose from.

In this process, power shifted from consumer to producer, and the designers became the new tastemakers. This further solidified the myth of the artistic, creative Paris.

This of course couldn’t have happened if there wasn’t already a recognition of the cultural value of fashion, aesthetics, and style integrated into the French mentality. It’s always difficult to pinpoint specific events or people that have changed the course of history without it sounding like a simplification, but if I were to highlight two people who helped create the foundation of Paris as a fashion capital, it would be Catherine de’ Medici and Louis XI.

Catherine de Medici, Queen of France, has been called “the most important woman in Europe in the 16th century”, and her patronage of the arts is still visible in many parts of Paris. Born in Florence, she imported many art forms from Italy, and made her royal palace in the Tuileries a centre for ballet, opera, and fashion.

A few decades later, “the Sun King” Louis XIV understood the value of fashion as a form of propaganda, as well as its economic importance, and thus he made it an integral part of his royal court. He was also invested in establishing the technical and aesthetic superiority of France’s clothing and textile industries, still important to understand contemporary French fashion.

After I had completed my PhD thesis in fashion studies at Stockholm University, I didn’t know what to do next. I had spent years writing about contemporary fashion, and now I had a longing to learn more about the history of fashion. Reading Walter Benjamin’s works on how Paris was transformed from a mediaeval town into the world’s most modern city (through the urban renovations in the 19th century), I wanted to experience it for myself. So I applied for a job at an Italian fashion school based in Paris, and moved to a small apartment in Montmartre, which I left after a year, to live more centrally, in the 8th arrondissement.

This guide is based on my own experiences and reflects my personal preferences, but combined with inputs from friends and colleagues working in the Paris fashion industry.

Rive Gauche

There is nothing more quintessentially Parisian than Saint-Germain-des-Prés, and this is also my absolute favourite neighbourhood. Historically, the “rive gauche” has been where students and intellectuals live, in the “Quartier Latin” around Sorbonne University. This is why Yves Saint Laurent called his more affordable, mass-produced fashion line “rive gauche”. But Saint-Germain is different and more grownup than the old student neighbourhood.

One of the best hotels in this area is L’hotel. With only 20 bedrooms, L’hotel is one of the smallest five star-hotels in Paris. Each bedroom is different from the other; a reflection of the hotel’s philosophy that a personalised journey is more interesting than a generic experience. Many people who haven’t stayed here still know of its existence, as this was the last address of Oscar Wilde. 

In his honour there is an Oscar Wilde Suite and a cocktail bar, Wilde’s Lounge, named in his honour. For those looking for something more on the cheap and cheerful side but still want to stay in this part of Paris, Hôtel Relais Saint Sulpice, right next to the church with the same name. My personal favourite hotel in Paris is Hôtel Duc De Saint-Simon (coincidentally also where Lauren Bacall would stay when she was in town), located in a historic townhouse built in the 18th century, a stone’s throw from Le Bon Marché, one of the world’s first department stores (but of course most people come here not to buy clothes but to experience La Grande Épicerie de Paris).

Don’t miss the Hermés flagship store in what was once the swimming pool of Hôtel Lutetia. Lutetia is an ancient name of Paris, and for many Parisians, Hotel Lutetia is a place of immense emotional significance, as this was one of the places where people could come to find their families after having been displaced by the nazis during WWII. Coincidentally, the hotel is also where Isabella Rossellini stays when in town.

Regarding shopping in Saint Germain – I make a point of always stopping by Officine Universelle Buly 1803 on 6 Rue Bonaparte. The store, inspired by ancient pharmacies, is beautiful, and the products – scented candles, soaps, and lotions – are made by hand from natural ingredients. A few blocks away (on 78 Rue de Seine), Cire Trudon (created by the same people who invented Buly) sells some of Paris’ best candles.

Le Seléct Bistro is one of the most classic restaurants in Saint-Germain but has managed to preserve its authentic atmosphere. Yves Saint Laurent’s and Karl Lagerfeld’s personal favourite however was La Coupole, its 1920s Art Deco-interiors perfectly intact.

A few blocks away is La Closerie des Lilas, for decades an important centre of the artistic and literary worlds of Paris. Look closely at your table and you will probably find a small brass plate attached, engraved with the name of one of the café’s famous regulars (like Hemingway, Baudelaire, Zola, Sartre, Stein and Toklas). A few minutes from La Closerie is another Parisian classic, Montparnasse’s Bouillon Chartier, in an opulent Art Nouveau-space. Here you can find typical French dishes, like œuf dur mayonnaise.

Both of these restaurants are in close proximity to Musée Bourdelle, former home and studio of sculptor Antoine Bourdelle, and today one of the most beautiful art museums in Paris.

A completely different type of cuisine – Moroccan, often based in couscous – is offered by La Mosquée de Paris, close to the museum Institut du Monde Arabe, housed in a spectacular (if slightly worn-down) modernist building.

Rive Droite

Paris might seem like it’s steeped in traditions and has a strong aversion to change, but in fact, it’s quite the opposite. Recently, the Samaritaine, abandoned for decades, has reopened as the city’s most interesting department store, and completely changed the neighbourhood, on the right side of the Seine. And in recent years, many news museums have opened their doors.

On this side is also where most of the city’s best fashion museums can be found. The recently opened La Galerie Dior is the most spectacular, with a lavish exhibition layout, in the same building from which Christian Dior created his empire, around the corner from the “fashion street” Avenue Montaigne, home to all of Paris’ luxury brands as well as Hôtel Plaza Athenée (personally, I think the hotel is overpriced but its Art Deco-styled restaurant Le Relais is lovely).

Nearby is the smaller (but still very nice) Musée Yves Saint Laurent, which includes the couturier’s former office. And in le Marais, a museum has been built around the former ateliers of Azzedine Alaïa, curated by Olivier Saillard (widely considered the world’s foremost fashion curator).

The official fashion museum of Paris is Palais Galliera (around the corner from the YSL museum and across the street from Palais de Tokyo and the Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris), while there is also a fashion and design museum in the Louvre building, Musée des Arts Décoratifs (on 107 Rue de Rivoli).

Paris can be crowded. For this reason, I love to go to the Tuileries and stroll in the shade of the trees, and I also like to relax with a good book on a lounge chair in Palais Royal. This is also an area with many great restaurants.

Cibus (5 Rue Molière) is a traditional Italian trattoria, but in a space that resembles a church. Simple yet refined cuisine, with inspiration from Rome and Naples. Higuma is an unassuming Japanese restaurant, little more than a hole in the wall, but with great ramen. If it’s full, try Naritake Ramen (31 Rue des Petits Champs), another great ramen (and noodle) place nearby. If you’re looking for something more traditionally Parisian, the classic Chez Georges (1 Rue du Mail) is your safest bet. Cocktails can be had at the historic Harry’s New York Bar.

This is also close to the covered arcade La Galerie Vivienne, built in 1823 just behind the Bibliothèque Richelieu (and home to the studio of Jean-Paul Gaultier). From there, it’s not far to the art centre Bourse de Commerce, part of Pinault Collection (François Pinault is the owner of Kering Group, which includes Gucci, YSL, Bottega Veneta, and Boucheron). The place is spectacular – it was built as a circular wheat exchange building, originally constructed in the 1760s, with an open-air court that was later capped by a wooden dome (and replaced in 1811 with a copper one). 

The dome constituted a major innovation in industrial architecture. The architects ordered an extraordinarily large panorama from artist Alexis Joseph Mazerolle, to decorate the base of the glass roof. Mazerolle worked with several other artists to portray trade on a world-wide scale on 14,000 square metres of canvas marouflage. The building itself was planned by Nicolas Le Camus de Mêzières, famous for its double helix staircase. The two ramps, which intertwine in two distinct helixes, allowed the porters who went up and down with the voluminous sacks of corn to avoid crossing each other. At the top is a restaurant with views of the neighbouring buildings, a place to pause and reflect on both the art and the architecture of this place.

Another one of my favourite museums is Cité de l’architecture et du patrimoine, in the exclusive (and very strolling-friendly) 16th arrondissement.

When in this area, the best restaurant (though perhaps not in regards to service, so don’t be shy when trying to get the attention of the staff) is Monsieur Bleu, with lovely views of the Eiffel Tower from the art déco-styled dining hall.

Monsieur Bleu is housed in the west wing in the same building as Palais de Tokyo, centre for contemporary art (with a great shop of magazine and art books). Further out from the city, in the Bois de Boulogne, Fondation Louis Vuitton, in a spectacular glass building designed by Frank Gehry, is a popular destination.

If the weather is nice, make sure to also visit the Parc de Bagatelle, a small park inside the same park. In more central locations, the Musée Picasso is a great introduction to the modernist master’s works, while Centre Pompidou is interesting not only for its art but for its architecture, which since has inspired many postmodern buildings.

Personally, I’m not a fan of the Parisian hipster neighbourhoods, but Clamato – which manages to be both rustic and chic at the same time, with a menu that is regularly updated – close to Bastille is good enough to make an exception. A few blocks north, Le Servan is a chic French-Asian restaurant, while Double Dragon is inspired by Philippine culinary traditions. Bouche is set up in a former kebab place and is a somewhat out of the central area of Paris, but its brutalist interiors and list of natural wines makes it worth the trip.

If Marais is your cup of tea, you’ve probably already been to Chez Omar, a regular meeting-place for the Parisian fashion crowd. Le Charlot is an unpretentious place with great burgers (and cocktails), while Le Collier de la Reine is a fashionable new seafood bar in northern Marais. Happy Nouilles (95 Rue Beaubourg) serves handmade noodles of excellent quality. Les Bains was the name of one of the most iconic nightclubs in Paris, now reborn as a boutique hotel with a nice restaurant and cocktail bar.

Montmartre

Montmartre was my first home in Paris and for this reason it will always be special to me. While obviously in Paris, it also feels very independent and secluded, almost like being in a village outside of the city. One reason for this is the topography, as alluded to by the name, Montmartre is perched on a hill overlooking the rest of Paris. A long-time favourite place for either brunch or cocktails is Hôtel Particulier, formerly the family home of the founders of Hermès, it’s today a boutique hotel, complete with its own small garden. The most popular natural wine bar in Montmartre is Aux Vins Vivants, while Marcel is an unpretentious restaurant popular among the locals, located on Avenue Junot, one of the most beautiful streets in the area. I loved living here, but it is a bit far away from everything, meaning you will do a lot of walking. However, if you like the idea of a village-version of Paris, Hôtel Monsieur Aristide is your best option. Just below Montmartre, in Pigalle, Hôtel Amour is elegant (in an Instagram-friendly way) but known for its irregular service, which makes it better for brunch, dinner or cocktails.

A few metro stops away from Montmartre is the world’s largest second hand furniture market, Paul Bert Serpette. The selection of objects is impressive but beware, much is overpriced, so go primarily for inspiration (unless you have unlimited funds, obviously).

Links

To Stay

Hôtel Amour – Hipster-friendly with beautiful restaurant and bar

Hôtel Duc De Saint-Simon – Wonderful hotel in a historic townhouse (and our favourite Paris hotel)

Hôtel Monsieur Aristide – Cozy place in Montmartre

L’hotel – intimate and luxurious hotel, with only 20 bedrooms, and with one of the best locations in the city

Hotel Lutetia – One of the great classics of Parisian hotels

Hôtel Plaza Athenée – The Grande Dame of hotels in Paris

Hôtel Relais Saint Sulpice – Budget-friendly and comfortable in great location

To Eat and Drink

Aux Vins Vivants – Natural wine bar in Montmartre

Les Bains Boutique hotel with a nice restaurant and cocktail bar.

Bouche – Brutalist interiors and natural wine.

Le Charlot – Burgers and cocktails

Chez Georges (1 Rue du Mail) – A Parisian institution

Chez Omar – Moroccan restaurant and a classic with the fashion crowd.

Cibus (5 Rue Molière) – A traditional Italian trattoria

Clamato – Hipster restaurant with great food

Le Collier de la Reine – Seafood in the Marais

La Closerie des Lilas – Traditional brasserie with an impressive literary legacy

La Coupole, – Yves Saint Laurent’s favourite, with its 1920s Art Deco-interiors perfectly intact

Double Dragon – nspired by Philippine culinary traditions

Happy Nouilles (95 Rue Beaubourg) – Handmade noodles of excellent quality

Harrys New York Bar.– Go here for cocktails

Higuma – Unassuming Japanese restaurant

Hôtel Particulier – Formerly the family home of the founders of Hermès, it’s today a boutique hotel, complete with restaurant and bar

Marcel – Restaurant popular among the locals in Montmartre

Monsieur Bleu – One of the smartest places in Paris

La Mosquée de Paris – Morroccan cuisine, with a large selection of couscous dishes

Naritake Ramen (31 Rue des Petits Champs) – Great ramen!

Le Relais – Iconic restaurant, at the Plaza Athenée

Le Seléct Bistro – Classic, authentic restaurant, in Saint-Germain

Le Servan – Chic French-Asian restaurant

Wilde’s Lounge – The bar at L'hotel.

To Shop

Bouillon Chartier – This Montparnasse restaurant has great Art Nouveau-interiors

Cire Trudon – Great candle store

La Grande Épicerie de Paris – One of the world’s best food shops

Hermés flagship store – Spectacular shop built in a former piscine, worth to visit for the interiors alone

Le Bon Marché – One of the world’s first and best department stores, don’t miss the furniture section

Paul Bert – The world’s largest fair for second hand furniture. Over-priced but inspirational.

Officine Universelle Buly 1803 – Wonderful shop inspired by old world’s pharmacies, selling scented candles, perfumes, and soaps.

Samaritaine – The latest edition to the city’s department stores, and probably the most spectacular.

To See

Azzedine Alaïa – Foundation with permanent exhibition of the sculptor-turned-designer’s most important works.

Bourse de Commerce - Wonderful art space, focus on contemporary art

Centre Pompidou – Modern and contemporary art

Cité de l’architecture et du patrimoine – Museum of architecture

Institut du Monde Arabe – Often great exhibitions in modernist (but slightly dated) building

,La Galerie Dior – Currently Paris’ best fashion museum

La Galerie Vivienne – One of Paris’ most beautiful covered arcades

Palais Galliera – Official fashion museum of Paris

Palais de Tokyo – Centre for contemporary art

Parc de Bagatelle – A beautiful park to stroll in

Musée Bourdelle – One of the most beautiful art museums in Paris

Musée des Arts Décoratifs – Museum of interiors and design

Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris – Museum of Modern Art

Musée Picasso – A great introduction to the master’s works

Musée Yves Saint Laurent – Museum dedicated to one of the most important designers in fashion history i