Procida / Slow Living in the Bay of Napels

So, you fell in love with the screen-adaption of Patricia Highsmith’s “The Talented Mr. Ripley”, featuring the sophisticated duo of Gwyneth Paltrow and Jude Law. 

You saw the couple in stylish summer-white clothes and with impeccable hair, his skin lightly bronzed, walking the streets of Positano and hoped that one day you would be doing the same.

One day, you travel there, to experience the lifestyle and to take in the pastel buildings and clear-blue water. But when you arrive, it doesn’t look like the film, and the town is noisy and over-crowded, a nightmare far from the slow and laid back weekend you were envisioning. You had a dream but were disappointed when trying to make it come true.

This is something that happens to most people at one point or another, but for you, there is an easy remedy: Go instead to nearby island Procida, where the film was actually shot, and you will find exactly the kind of vibe that you are looking for. 

Procida is the smallest of the three volcanic islands – the other two are Capri and Ischia – in the Bay of Naples. 

Capri is the most glamorous and attracts more of a jet-set crowd (more specifically, this crowd is attracted to being on yachts close to Capri, though they rarely actually set foot on the island itself) and Ischia is the largest. 

Procida is the lesser known of the trio, which is also why it is so attractive to visit. 

Volcanic areas are known for their high energy levels, and volcanoes are one of the most evident manifestations of the Earth’s inner energy. 

The landscape around volcanoes reflects this, as it is often dramatic, and the fruits and vegetables here come with a particularly intense flavour, due to the mineral-rich soil found here. 

Applied to Procida; locally sourced food and wine have stronger and more vibrant flavours, and so it is recommended that you seek out restaurants that serve locally produced dishes during your visit.

The easiest way to reach Procida is by ferry from Naples. 

The crossing takes about 40 minutes (if travelling by hydrofoil), and you will soon arrive in Marina Grande, where you first will see Palazzo Montefusco, once the summer home of the royal family. 

Marina Grande is the commercial centre of the island, full of craft shops and small boutiques. Don’t miss the 18th-century Church of Santa Maria della Pieta, known as the fisherman’s church.

From there, it is a short walk to Marina di Corricella, a pleasant town with the island’s best hotel, San Michele. 

With only twelve rooms, and interior design in natural materials – raw wood furniture, wicker accessories, and textured rugs, tapestry, and pillowcases – it offers a bespoke and organic kind of luxury, in line with the rustic spirit of the island. 

In Corricella there are several small, quaint restaurants, as well as the possibility of renting a boat for those who want to explore the island from the ocean. 

Established in the 17th century, Corricella is also the oldest town on the island, and one of the few remaining places in Italy where fishermen still mend their nets by the sea.

Houses on the island are painted in pink, blue, and green pastel colours. 

The original reason for this is more practical than aesthetic, as it helped local fishermen to spot their homes from the sea. 

A maze of staircases joins the houses, which are often decorated by domes and arches. 

The narrow lanes are car and scooter free, making it easy to walk around and explore without being bothered by traffic. 

The highest point of the island is the fortified mediaeval village Terra Murata, just above Corricella. 

Here you will find some of the best views of the Bay of Naples, as well as a few small museums documenting local life in a historic perspective.

Palazzo d’Avalos was built in the 1500s as a mansion for the island’s governors. 

In 1830, it was converted into a prison for political dissidents, but since 1988, it has been deserted and today, it is overgrown with flowers and trees, making it a very beautiful ruin. 

As on most islands, the locals on Procida had to be on the lookout for invading forces. Therefore, people tended to live inland and uphill, in tightly clustered houses, with entrances inside courtyards for extra security. 

An example of this can be found in Casale Vascello, just below the Terre Murata, noted for its architecture, which is typical for Procida. 

On the other side of the island from Marina Grande, you will find Marina Chiaiolella. 

Procida is a small island, only 4,1 square kilometres, and it’s perfectly doable to walk from one side of the island to the other, but it is not recommended. 

Splurge on a taxi or take the bus, or even better, rent a bicycle or a scooter (driving a car is reserved for locals). 

Once you reach Marina Chiaiolella, have lunch at A Chiaiuledd Ristorante. 

It is a very unassuming place, but the food is amazing. 

Make sure to try some of the lemon-based dishes, as Procida is famous for the high quality of its lemons, characterised by its thick albedo, intense aroma, and mild acidity. 

Speaking of treats, don’t miss trying a “Lingua di Bue”, or “Ox Tongues”, pastries that are an important part of Procida’s rich culinary heritage, and so of course their shortcrust shell is filled with luscious lemon-flavoured pastry cream. 

Typically, this is enjoyed as a breakfast treat or as a dessert, served with a dusting of powdered sugar on top and paired with a cup of coffee. 

In general, seeking out small restaurants and locally owned cafés, as well as buying local crafts (which Procida is known for) as well as the island’s own limoncello, is an excellent way to support local businesses, and thus making your stay here more sustainable for the local economy.

Marina Chiaiolella is also where the islet of Vivara (once a volcanic crater) connects with Procida, via a footbridge, which you find at the end of Via Santa Margherita. 

The islet is today a nature reserve, and is more or less closed off for visitors, in order for wildlife to exist undisturbed by human presence. 

Exceptions are made if you book in advance, and visitors are only allowed Friday through Sunday, on guided tours.

However, not far from here is Spiaggia di Ciraccio, probably the best beach on Procida. You will want to walk a bit to find the best part, as the area closest to town tends to be crowded and the water is not so nice. 

But if you only continue a bit farther on, you will find spots with less people, warmer waters, and more beautiful scenery. Waters here are shallow, making swimming here very pleasant, and the water is crystal clear.

A good advice is to head over to Punta Pizzaco in the early evenings, as this is the best spot to view the famous Procida-sunsets from. 

To summarise, Procida is a small island, characterised by a slow way of living. 

The locals are (rightly) very proud of their home and what it can produce, both in terms of natural scenery but also quality of food and drink. 

Make sure to take part of all that the island has to offer.

To Stay

San Michele

Bohemian luxury in Marina di Corricella.

To Eat and Drink

A Chiaiuledd Ristorante

Fantastic cuisine in modest restaurant, using locally sourced ingredients. In Marina Chiaiolella.

Ristorante La Pergola

Beautiful restaurant with alfresco dining under lemon trees. Make reservation in advance. Dinner only. 

Via Salette, 10

Local specialities: “Lingue di Bue”, or “Ox Tongues”, pastries that are an important part of Procida’s rich culinary heritage.

Local beverage:: Locally grown Limoncello, made from Procida lemons. 

To Visit

Terra Murata

Great view of the Bay of Naples.

Punta Pizzaco

Best view of the sunset on the island.