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SAINT-JEAN-DE-LUZ / BONJOUR TRISTESSE

FAST GUIDE TO SLOW SAINT-JEAN-DE-LUZ

There is nothing as indulgent as spending a day at the beach. The thin strip where land meets ocean, with its golden sand and rhythmic sound of washes crashing against the shores, inviting the visitor to sit down, relax and do nothing but to simply be in the moment.

Throughout the years, many writers, artists and film-makers have celebrated this particular kind of place, where time seems to stand still.

One of the most famous interpretations in cinematic history is Federico Fellini’s slightly surreal “Juliet of the Spirits” (1965), where a visit to the beach evolves into a complicated, colourful drama. The beaches of the musical “South Pacific” (1958) showed a more tropical version, while the famous beach scene in “From Here to Eternity” (1953) displayed, in the most emotionally dramatic way, the end of the world as we know it.

The beach in Saint-Jean-de-Luz is a far cry from Fellini’s Rimini beaches.

All the world’s beaches are related somehow, but every beach is also distinctly unique and comes with its own characteristics.

The shores of the Atlantic Coast have a certain wilderness to them, marked by the vastness of the deep and seemingly endless Atlantic Ocean that both begins and ends on this shoreline. Perhaps this is also why it feels as though time moves at a slower pace in this part of the world.

Unbothered by temporary fads and brief trends, Saint-Jean-de-Luz only follows the rhythm of the sea, and people come here to do just that; to listen to the sea and not much else.

In the morning, the beach is generally deserted, except for the singular (and often elderly) man or woman who goes for a brief swim, in the same way that they probably have done for decades.

Seaside routines rarely change. Slowly, as the sun rises, more and more people gather, but in these first morning hours, the beach remains more or less empty. Even the sun seems hesitant.

Spending an afternoon at the beach, with all its clusters of people resting in the sun, is a magical experience.

The only thing that seems to move is the wind, and then only in the shape of a gentle breeze.

“The towns here have been more or less unaffected by the last decades of mass-tourism.”

Saint-Jean-de-Luz is more remotely located than similar towns on Côte d’Azur.

The French Riviera is easily accessed from many countries, such as Italy, Switzerland and even Germany.

In comparison, the Basque Country is relatively isolated.

This works to its advantage, as the towns here have been more or less unaffected by the last decades of mass-tourism.

Saint-Jean-de-Luz is a rare gem, a seaside town that has kept its allure and distinct personality.

Nestled in the heart of a large bay between ocean and mountains, the town has gone through several reincarnations through the years, from being a fishing port to a destination for wellness and vacationers, all the while remaining true to its distinct Basque history and charm.

The historic heart of the town is Place Louis XIV, surrounded by Maison Louis XIV and the Hôtel de Ville.

This is where the mains streets, including Rue Gambetta, intersect, and where the narrow Rue de la République leads directly down to la Grande Plage.

The name of the square alludes to the historic event that took place here on June 9th, 1660, when Louis XIV, later known as the Sun King and coincidentally also born in the town, married Maria Theresa Infanta of Spain.

For more than a month, the sovereign lived here with his large and sumptuous court. Witnesses from the ceremony describe the event as;

“Louis XIV, in all the splendor of youth and power, advances, radiant, preceded by Cardinal Mazarin. He is dressed in a suit covered with black lace, and a brocade and gold coat. Then, there is the Infanta Marie-Thérèse, dressed in a dress of silver cloth; over her shoulders, a violet cloak with a very long tail, strewn with fleur-de-lis; on her head a heavy crown of gold..."

It might seem strange for a royal wedding to take place in a small town such as this, but the reason was political. Since 1648, France and Spain had been at war with one another. The year before the wedding, a peace treaty had been signed by the border, in the nearby Pyrenees Mountains.

The wedding between the two young royals was to sign the peace deal between the two countries, a manifestation that they now would join forces rather than being enemies. This needed to happen on neutral ground, and Saint-Jean-de-Luz was located right in the middle between Paris and Madrid.

Ever since, several buildings and places are named both after the Spanish princess and the French prince. Maison de l’Infante in particular has continued to welcome royal visitors, including the grand-children of Louis XIV and Marie-Thérèse as well as Napoleon III and Empress Eugénie.

TO LISTEN TO

Sslowness-soundtrack to St.-Jean-de-Luz

TO STAY

Grand Hôtel Thalasso & Spa

A truly classic hotel, with an impressive wellbeing and spa area, located almost right on the beach. Their restaurant, Aho Fina, is also worth a visit.

43, Boulevard Thiers

Saint-Jean-de-Luz

Hôtel Parc Victoria

Only five minutes from the beach, this hotel, in a stately mansion, offers all the amenities one could wish for.

9, Rue Cape

Saint-Jean-de-Luz

TO EAT AND DRINK

Le Kaïku

Instagram-friendly gastronomic experience, based on the best ingredients of the area. Open for both lunch and dinner.

17, Rue de la République

Saint-Jean-de-Luz

+33 5 59 26 13 20