Vittoriale degli Italiani

Vittoriale degli Italiani – or in English, The Shrine of Victories of the Italians – is one of the strangest but also most beautiful places to visit in the region around Lake Garda.

The original villa, Villa Cargnacco, in the centre of the vast estate, once belonged to the German art historian and specialist of Italian Renaissance, Henry Thode. 

As an art expert, Thode argued that German art, in order to become truly great, should not only be technically advanced and realistic in its expression, but it should also (and more importantly) embody the German spirit.

Married to Daniela von Bülow, who was the granddaughter of Franz Liszt and daughter of Hans and Cosima von Bülow (who, in her second marriage was wed to Richard Wagner, with whom she founded the Bayreuth Festival),

Thode was an integral part of German nationalist society around the turn of the last century, formulating the cultural policies of what would eventually become known as the Third Reich.

Following a falling-out between the German intellectual and the Italian government, the villa was confiscated by the Italian state, and subsequently purchased by the poet and novelist Gabriele D’Annunzio, who quickly began reconstructing the compound together with architect Giancarlo Maroni according to his own vision and ideas.

As a poet, D'Annunzio was associated with the Decadent movement, promoting an aesthetic ideology of excess and artificiality. Politically, he was part of the Italian ultra nationalist movement.

Though he never labelled himself a fascist, his ideas and visionary aesthetics had a fundamental impact on Benito Mussolini, and D'Annunzio is often described as one of the most important influences in the shaping of fascism.

Initially, D'Annunzio's expensive renovations of the Garda estate were aided by the fascist regime, happy to keep him occupied in the countryside, far away from political power. In order to do so, they made huge sums available in order for him to expand the property and to further add on to the already impressive collection of books and art left behind by Thode (which had been confiscated along with the building).

Construction began in 1921 and ended in 1938, following the death of d’Annunzio. The aim was to display the power of Italy.

D’Annunizio himself had, for a brief time, been the dictator of the city of Flume (today known as Rijeka in Croatia), seeking to have Italy annex the city. When this was denied, they declared Flume an independent state (which foreshadowed the Italian fascist system, with D'Annunzio as its “Duce”).

He declared war on Italy before finally surrendering in late 1920, after five days of fighting.

In Gardone Riviera, he could focus on the more aesthetic aspect of his nationalist ideas, creating a tribute to the military victories of his and Italy’s past.

In 1925, an aeroplane D’Annunzio had used to fly over Vienna distributing political pamphlets was brought to the estate, as was the MAS naval vessel he used to mock the Austrians, also part of his psychological warfare during World War I.

A few months later, the protected cruiser Puglia was hauled up the hill and placed behind the house, which required further acquisition of surrounding land and buildings – today the area is vast and contains buildings, streets and several parks.

The ship, placed behind the main building complex, is deliberately pointed towards the Adriatic Sea, seemingly ready to conquer the Dalmatian shores.

D’Annunzio was supported by King Victor Emmanuel III, who in 1924 gave him the hereditary title of Prince of Montenevoso, while in 1937 he was made president of the Royal Academy of Italy.

The actual villa, called the Prioria, is also an unusual experience. It holds two waiting rooms, one for wanted guests and one for unwanted ones (Mussolini often found himself in the latter, as the two were political rivals within the Fascist movement).

In the Relic room, there is a large collection of religious statues and images of different beliefs, placed together to make a statement on what D'Annunzio viewed to be the universal character of spirituality.

There are also other large buildings on the estate, such as the mausoleum, a circular structure situated on the highest point, and contains not only the remains of D’Annunzio himself but also of several of the men who served him.

A large amphitheatre, based upon classical Roman models, is today often used as the stage for dance performances and music evenings in warm summer evenings.

Vittoriale degli italiani

Gardone Riviera, Italy